rick deere
Well-known Member
These might be better to show my problem, when tractor is running and if you try to take top off the fill cap fluid goes everywere
- Thread starter rick deere
- Start date
rick deere
Well-known Member
can you make these pictures out better, which line is the return and should putting it somewere else help my problem?? thanks
Nebraska Cowman
Well-known Member
Well, Don't take the cap off when it's running! There is a reason the vent hole in the cap is plugged!
Nebraska Cowman
Well-known Member
No, I can see it OK. The line from under the tank goes to one of the left side ports and the other 2 go to your remotes. correct?
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
It is the nature of the beast. Go get some 3/4" pipe and several assorted fittings, and extend that fill tube up and out. Doing so will not make the problem go away completely, but it WILL help a bunch, and adding oil when needed will be a whole lot easier.
rick deere
Well-known Member
yes
rick deere
Well-known Member
and what is the pump behind the destributor
OK rick. you have a 'belly' pump.Looks like the supply is coming from the left side. There is no pump and no hoses comeing from the distributor area.It is hooked up normally.As janickolson said,remount the valve.use strap iron to make a bracket and run the return down to the pump drain plug. One question: why are you removeing the cap while the engine is running?
Nebraska Cowman
Well-known Member
That's not a pump. It's just the housing for the shaft & bearings.
Cory Schmidt
Well-known Member
First off I see you have 2 valves. The one on the tractor(the lift all) is pinned to the frame to provide continual pressure to the second(tree). If the fluid is not being used (making implement move) the fluid bypasses the valve and goes back via return. The return on the 2nd valve is directed though the fill hole. As the fluid falls back in it pushes air out(oil is pushed back out with air). To fix route return to drain at bottom of tractor. This forces the return oil to push oil(that pushes air up) and the air leaves via the vent (that is plugged on cap) or open cap.
Nebraska Cowman
Well-known Member
I would not recommend changing the return routing. It's set up as intended now. By design the tree vale needs the return pipe to support it.
Cory Schmidt
Well-known Member
Like others posted the easiest/fastest fix is don't remove cap at all when running
rick deere
Well-known Member
I dont take the cap off when it runs but oil comes out there when tractor is running, if I stop it completely seems like that would make it leak somewere else, guess I need to make another rod and take that strap off?
Grumpydaniel
Member
Kevin, where the hell could I find a pump like that?
That makes it a live system! And would it fit an H?
That makes it a live system! And would it fit an H?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The bottom of the valve in the picture is connected to the fill pipe riser with iron pipe. That pipe is the return. Disconnecting it is necessary to redirect the return flow to the bottom of the reservoir. When disconnected, the valve becomes unmounted, and will require fabrication of brackets to hold it in place. A simple solution to the problem is to put a metal disc and gasket on the existing cap. As long as double acting cylinders (two hoses) are used, the level will not change much, and fluid will not leak out. If single acting cylinders are used, the cap must be vented. in which case the best is to reroute the return to the bottom, and make brackets. Jim
Cory Schmidt
Well-known Member
check that the cap and plug(try pipe plug not just a bolt) are tight. If its running out even with the cap on it might just be loose( or worse a busted thread) The strap on the frame holds the "lift-all" valve control to provide pressure to the other valve(that gives two way pressure), this set up is fine. With out it you would have to hold it(lift-all) while running the other one.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
M&W made a retrofit pump to fit H and M Farmalls. (made before 1950.5) The 1950 and a half and later tractors have the same bolt pattern and better cam gears found on super H and M tractors. Earlier tractors have a different bolt pattern. The weak cam gears do fail when used with a pump. The M pumps from super Ms SMTA, 400, 450, all will work with the later M tractors. The SH 300 350 live pump wil fit the later H. The replacement of the cam drive gear and front cover casting (or plugging and redrilling mounting holes for the same old cover is needed to use a live IH OEM style pump on an older H or M. M&W pumps are no longer made and command a good price if good. Jim
Slater gave you the answers you need. But take that fixed rod off when not using the two way valve and then no oil will be flowing through that tree all the time. KEEP BLEEDER VALVE CLOSED WHEN USING TWO WAY. To use it on single action cyl, then you lock two way and use belly pump outlet. Do not use the two way hoses on a one way as the bleeder has to be open and then you will have oil running all over. So, if you use it on one way you will need to add a proper lever on belly pump.
Grumpydaniel
Member
Thanks, guys. I'll delve into this and see what I can find. Janicholson, you mention replaciong the cam gear (sounds like fun) -- where do I get that and how would I know if it's heavier duty than the one on my '43 H?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
All gears from SH to 300 on up are good to use. The part numbers are posted on the caseih.com site (parts).
To replace the cover with one from a SH or number series, the bolster (whole front of the tractor from the fan forward is removed (needed to change the gears as well. The original cam drive gear was aluminum. They loose teeth and or the hub cracks. the newer gears are steel. Jim
To replace the cover with one from a SH or number series, the bolster (whole front of the tractor from the fan forward is removed (needed to change the gears as well. The original cam drive gear was aluminum. They loose teeth and or the hub cracks. the newer gears are steel. Jim
CenTex Farmall
Well-known Member
I set up an M one time with an open center spool and had the same issue. The problem is that when the fluid hits the "T" half goes down and half wants to go up.
What I did was put the return where the cap was and the filler/vent cap on the "T" part. Then the returning fluid shoots straight down. Problem solved.
You could also plumb the return to the drain plug as suggested. I don't like that idea because I think it stirs up the inevitable trash that collects at the bottom.
What I did was put the return where the cap was and the filler/vent cap on the "T" part. Then the returning fluid shoots straight down. Problem solved.
You could also plumb the return to the drain plug as suggested. I don't like that idea because I think it stirs up the inevitable trash that collects at the bottom.
we have an F-20 with the same setup , this is the only pic I could find , but if you zoom in you can see pretty well , the tree is teed to the fill and the fill is extended up with a couple bends , I can remember Dad planting with an IH 56 planter and using a hydraulic disc and it never spit out any hydraulic fluid . I'm not smart enough to edit the pic and post the zoomed in part but maybe someone else can. I think this is what a couple of the posts were talking about plumbing wise....
No, it won't leak somewhere else unless there is a problem.
What you're getting is just "splash" from the oil returning to the reservoir as it circulates. It has to turn a corner there and the oil goes both directions.
Just replace that cap with a regular old black iron 3/4" pipe cap. The bolt jammed in there isn't sealing.
Like everyone else has said, that is exactly how it's supposed to be except for the leaky vent on the cap.
You can make another rod for originality's sake, but there is nothing wrong with it the way it is.
Grumpydaniel
Member
Great, and thanks! Sounds like I got a new project for this spring!
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy