1066 Engine Problem

I have a 1066 with about 6000 hours that is my main source of horse power around here. Over the past year a few problems have cropped up. In the spring of this year while pulling a 15 foot no- till grain drill, I noticed a blue tinge and the smell of oil in the exhaust. This issue seemed to be sporadic as it was not present all the time. Also noticed the oil in the crank case seemed to be thinner that usual (fuel I'm assuming no evidence of coolant loss) and there seemed to be more blow- by than normal also sporadic. This fall while hauling wagons to the grain elevator I could hear a very noticeable tick when the engine was cold that would almost go away as it warmed up to operating temp. This tick is most noticeable near the valve cover RH side toward the rear. I've had much advice regarding the matter ranging from simple valve adjustment and injector pump rebuild to a complete engine overhaul or crate engine. At this time I'm not sure exactly how to proceed. If an overhaul is imminent what is your opinion of Case IH crate engines. I have read this forum for many years and know there are many of you out there with lots of experience with this engine and am confident I will receive some good advice.


I purchased the tractor used back in the mid 80's and to my knowledge engine is untouched. I am unable to do the work myself due to lack of shop equipment, time and of coarse knowledge. I am prepared to spend the money (if needed) to make it right the first time. I only work 200 acres and pull 18' equipment and occasionally 5-14" plow. TA is relatively fresh and new tires.
Thanks Rich

Your turbo could be failing.Blowing oil out through the seals.Since you say the oil is getting thinner,your injection pump seal is leaking/failed. Does it smell like diesel? if so,pump fixing time.Do not run it like that! thinned oil is not sufficent engine protection.Engine failure can/will result.Refill with fresh oil,see if the noise goes away.Do a bit of trouble shooting before any rash decisions

DeltaRed: Thanks for the reply. Are you suggesting that because the oil has been thinned out that it is not properly lubricating valve train thus causing ticking noise? Engine oil was changed before we started harvesting. Probably only has 15 hours on it. Your suggestion on the turbo sounds plausible as last winter we were cutting down some big ash trees and tractor was left idling for about an hour. When I returned to it oil was dripping out of the turbo. I know better than to leave it at a low idle but it happened. It eventually burned off and all seemed fine.

Also is it possible that fuel leak past the pump into crank case when engine is shut off?

Rich,take an oil sample to a dealer and get them to do analysis and it will tell you what you have in your oil before you start throwing money at an unknown problem.Where are you in Ont?

Rich,That's called slobbering some on the big over the road semi will do it, most do not,That's definitely coming from the turbo seal, but that doesn't the seal is shot!!! I would take a oil sample,and send it in,get a oil test kit,Its a jar with a prepaid,self stamped box etc.

What was dripping from the exhaust manifold after idling for an hour is mostly water that has condensed from water vapor that is a result of combustion. It is mixed with soot to give it the black color. You will notice that as it dries it is not very oily.

The ticking may be either a loose valve adjustment or a leak between the exhaust manifold and cylinder head. If it is the valve adjustment you probably have a worn camshaft and lifters.

If you have fuel leaking into the crankcase it will dilute the oil and in turn cause it to burn more as is escapes past the rings. The amount of fuel coming in can mask the amount being burned.

Fuel can leak into the crankcase even with the engine off. It will happen must faster with the engine running because the injection pump housing is then running with charge pressure also pushing on the seals. If the pump has not been serviced in the past the age of the seals would cause the to be suspect even of the pump housing is good.

At 6000 hours the engine would be a good candidate for a worm cam and lifters. If the noise if from the lifters I would recommend doing a test on the cam to see how much lift it has lost. If you have a worn cam then you will have to decide what would be the best route for you follow. To repair it I would recommend removing the head to inspect the cam and lifters. You can also inspect the sleeves for wear at that time. I would drop the oil pan to inspect the crankshaft bearings. At that point the sleeves and pistons can be pushed out as an assembly to inspect for cavitation. If there is little to no cavitation the sleeves can be rotated 90° and reinstalled with new O-rings. The bearings will probably have enough were to justify replacing with new ones. The cylinder head should be inspected for valve protrusion/recession and loose valve guides.

Your tic sound could also be the injector spray pattern. It doesn't burn the fuel on the first compression but does on the second (with another load of fuel from the injection pump). Spray pattern can wash down the cylinder liner and score pistons. Since it may not be burning the fuel, it will get to your crank case due to normal blow-by past the rings.

I would do the easy stuff first like send an oil sample in for test to see if fuel is in it. (Viscosity will be way low for the oil you are using) Be sure to indicate which oil you are using, the brand (i.e. Shell) the name (Rotella T) and the weight (15w-40). They will need that to know what the baseline viscosity is and then compare your results to it.