Do you need to remove frontend to remove radiator on M?

My old M radiator is leaking where the steering shaft goes through it. I don't think I can soldier it without removing it. I have a wide frontend on the tractor. Do I need to remove the frontend in order to reach the bolts, so I can remove the radiator?

Thanks,
Bob
 
Depends. If the factory 'setback' plate has holes in it to access the bolts,no.If the plate has not had holes cut in it,yes.An aftermarket front may or may not have access holes for those bolts. The only way to know for sure is to crawl under and LOOK.If there are no holes to access the bolts,yep,ya gotta drop the front.While the front is off,make two holes(those holes are usuually 'cut' with a torch) in the plate,so the next time the radiator needs to come out,the front can stay on.
 
All the ones I have worked on you could remove it but not real easy. You need a long extension and socket and then you have to hold your mouth just right to do so
 
I was hoping that wasn't the case, but I'll get it done. I noticed that the steering shaft is not centered in the hole through the radiator. Can you shift the radiator around enough so that it isn't so close to the side? It does rub a little and I don't want that to be a problem later on.

Bob
 
Yes, when you place the radiator back on, place as many donut spacers as you need around the bottom radiator bolts, so that the radiator sits on them at the height you want it, takes some trial and error. There is enough room for adjustment that the fan does not hit the shroud. I had a wide front on my M, previous owner had already torched the holes out so I could put a long extension on my socket to get the bolts out. Hardest part was getting them back in because of the preloaded compression springs.
 
Bob
We just did this a couple of weeks ago. It was a Super M with a Schwartz wide front end. We got everything off and found that we could not access the bottom radiator bolts. There were 2 small holes under them we used a air driven pencil grinder and slotted the holes out so a socket and extension would fit up in there. took about 10 min for each one. The steering shaft was rubbing on this one also so we shimmed it up. I asked this same question on here 2 or 3 weeks ago. I hope you get it off ok
 
Before you tighten down the new radiator, check to make sure the hood is not cutting into the air breather pipe and adjust the brace rod accordingly.
Many M's have a "cut" in the air breather pipe from a radiator that pushes the hood into the air breather pipe.
 

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