IH model H, won't start

The H I have has been setting a couple years without being started or turned over with the crank. Did the diesel and atf mixture in the cyl for about a week and freed it up. Now the engine will not start. A squirt of starting fluid will make it fire for about 3 seconds and then quits. Had the carb off now about 5 times just to make sure everything was cleaned out. When turning it over there is good suction at the carb and the gas line is running good and filling the carb, but gas is not getting to the cyl. I have about wore the carb out taking It off and on. Please help me, I am up to my eyeballs in this tractor.

jew

If you remove the plug in the bottom/side of the carb do you have a good stream of gas running out of hole?

take the gas cap off of the tank and try again.
pull choke about 2/3 way on and try again
do you have a small gas tank, lawn mower tank? if so, remove gas line from tractor and plumb small tank into carb and try again
if you can get someone to help, remove air breather pipe from carb, wet rag with gas and hold rag loosley over mouth of carb, have someone try to start engine. gas is not as hard on engines as ether.

Here's my H carb procedure;

Make sure the float isn’t sticking or touching the insides of the float chamber. Some previous advice was to use a Dremel tool and smooth the insides of the float chamber so the float doesn’t rub or touch. Pretty important.
Set the float so the top of it rests 1 27/32" above the flat surface of the float chamber.
Initial settings are as follows to get it started;
Main fuel adjusting screw, big screw facing down at an angle, towards the rear, at the bottom of the carb; 2 1/2 to 3 turns open. This main screw turns clock-wise for leaner mixture. [This screw adjusts fuel.]
Idle air-mixture screw, smaller screw facing forwards, on upper left-hand side of carb; 1 to 1 1/2 turns open. This idle screw turns counter-clockwise for leaner. [This screw adjusts air.]
Idle speed screw, faces outboard, at the top of the carb; set for 450 rpm, and make sure the governor correctly engages in the slot. [This screw adjusts RPM’s.]
Final settings are determined as follows;
Get the engine warmed up, and idling.
Turn OUT the idle air-mixture screw until rough running, then turn in until it idles smooth. (Mine is set at 1 turn open.)
Rev it up, wide open, warmed up, then turn the main fuel adjusting screw IN until rough, then out til smooth, then 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn further out. (Mine is set at 1 turn open. Other advice has been to set it at 2 1/2 turns open for pulling implements.)
Should rev up smoothly and evenly.
Too Lean = stumble, sputter, damaged melted plugs.
Correct = tan plugs.
Too Rich = back smoke, black sooty plugs.


Make sure points are set correct; I could not NOT get mine, had to have my brother set mine, then she fired directly up.

take the carb off again. Make sure EVERY tiny passage is clear. Take out the nozzle and make sure it is clear. I like to use a can of spray carb cleaner. Shoot the wand in each passage and see where the cleaner comes out. If it goes in it has to come out somewhere and if it blows back at you the passage is plugged.

If starting fluid makes it fire and run, the ignition must be close enough for the purposes of getting it started.

I take it you've tried to start the tractor, pulled the plugs, and they're dry?

Like others have said, you're not getting gas, and you've developed "mechanic's blindness" in taking the carb apart so many times. You are glossing over the problem with a, "Yeah, I already checked that and it's okay," as you work through the carb.

Yes. the plugs are dry. What I don't understand is that when you turn the tractor over with full choke gas does not run out from being over choked.

Thanks, I will give these adjustments a try

I will check it again, thanks

The stream looks like about the same amount that the float valve lets in.

how did you make sure everything was cleaned out? was it totally disassembled and soaked in carb cleaner. if not then you have a plugged passage.

Yes, I took the carb completely and soaked it carb cleaner for two days. If I spray gas into the intake it will start and run as long as I keep spraying gas into the intake.

stuck engine on a tractor that has been sitting,
means a completely stopped up carb...with rust..
Like the other posters have said, gotta try again.
Just soaking in carb cleaner won't do it with rust.
gotta break out the wires, needles, and probes.
With your symptoms, with the supply and bowl drain showing flow,
first suspect like mentioned is the main nozzle, its well, and passages. usually a rusted disaster area.
(careful here if it's a threaded in nozzle, they break easily when rusted in)
And depending on which carb design, a main jet and its passage/needle at the bottom of a carb bowl is sure to be full of rust.