Marvel Mystery OIl

DoubleR

Well-known Member
Location
Mid Mi
I was thinking of adding some to the gas on my Farmall C. I don't use it much and I think it needs a good workout. I see where some of you recommend adding some to your gas. I thought I would do so before giving her a little workout.
My question is, how much of the oil do I add to the gas? Thank you in advance for your response.
 
I use sea foam in my gas tractors. I do use Marvel Mystery oil in my 272 Huskvarna chain saw. It does not idle worth a hoot if I do not use it. I put a cap full plus a little extra to each filling. This saw has cut many thousands of cords. I'm a "believer". Randy
 
So u think u really want to use that, the tractor has a weather cap, and it sets inside over the winter ? If i would put in anything i would put in some marine ethanol fuel, water treatment, the blue bottle , not the red. And what ever you do, DO NOT use Ethanol blend fuels [10%] because that draws moisture out of the air,while it sits over winter.
 
I use Marvel Mystery oil mainly in my air cooled engines but have used it in farm tractor if I'am going to work it hard and can it be used in oil. The side of bottle will tell how much to use.
 
Thats funny all of my tractors set all winter with ethanol and start rite up for removing snow and the mower tractor of course isnt used but they all start in the spring must just be some more old wives tales about ethanol. How can it draw moisture in a tank with the cap on its sealed up.
 
Mine too ,and one has E85 in it most of the winter. I do use Seafoam in the recommended doses for the amount of fuel I put in though. The others have whatever the cheapest of the places I get gas has, with Seafoam. In fact, one my boys little racer mowers has a steel tank on it, filled it with non ethanol once, gas tank had rusted over the winter!
 
well u have a little air hole in the center of the cap, to let air in when u are running the engine. Look inside the tank with a flashlight, it should be bright and shinny, like looking inside a new pop can.I used ethanol in one M and that's the only tank that turned to rust. Anybody want a free used tank gas for a M.
 
Old, I have seen you post before about using ATF. I guess what I don't understand is what it does. Does it act like a penetrating oil and cut rust and crude? I always thought it was just a lubricant like motor oil.
I brought a grease fitting rejuvenator a while back and it recommending using ATF in it. That is what I've used and I have had good luck with it.
 
ATF is in fact an oil that has qualities of cutting rust and freeing up stuck parts and in your case to lube the upper parts of the engine and clean out carbon build up and free up the piston rings
 
Since ATF doesnt get changed as often as say oil does, it has "extra" additives in it to keep the inside of a transmission cleaner, longer. These same additives will break rust loose, clean valves, etc.. (I personally have never used it in gas to clean valves, carbon etc, but I have used it in diesels to clean injectors. Ive just never had a reason to add it to gasoline engines. MMO has an addition additive to use it as a fuel stabilizer. (Just to make it simple to understand. Im not a chemist by any means.)
 
The long and short of it is, use whatever snake oil, tonic, or tincture in your fuel that makes you feel better. None of it can hurt, and it might even help.

Ask four people about putting X in your tank, and you will get four different answers:

1. Yes. I put it in and nothing bad happened.
2. Yes. I put it in and something bad happened.
3. No. I did not put it in and nothing bad happened.
4. No. I did not put it in and something bad happened.

What we don't have is anything scientific. Each authority on the subject is quoting from a data set of ONE, and the operating variables from person to person are all over the place...

For all we know, whatever happened or did not happen, would have, regardless of what you did.

Test 100 identical tractors in identical conditions over the course of a few decades, and you might have something that borders on proof that something does or does not work.
 
You can get moisture in a tank over winter its called condensation. You can find it in fuel tanks,engine oil pans,and gear cases.I crack the oil plugs on my old tractors ( JD D- Farmall F20) and find small amount water in bottom of oil pans and they set inside in a unheated building.
 
The absoluste worst thing you can do to a tractor, gas or diesel, is to let is set. Even if it is in the shed. Inactivity in my mind is almost tractor abuse!!

Gene
 
sure go ahead, won't hurt anything.
I use MMO, ATF, Seafoam, in the gas only. Oil pans only get good oil.
Whatever I have laying around, in old tractors I get that I'm not going to tear down.

My highly scientific test that it works.....
When I use it in the gas on vertical exhaust tractors, my hood gets dirty with black specks.
Whether the black muck comes from the chamber or the inside of the exhaust system...who knows.
It was in the engine someplace...now it's not.

I see real mechanics pull in Seafoam thru a vacuum line to clean stuff, and pretty much everybody dumps a can of fuel injector cleaner in the tank of their modern cars once in a while.
same difference, right?
 
well first thing is you need to give the condition of the engine, or even check the compression. then you go from there. for instance if there is valve stem and guide wear and ring wear then it will do little to benefit. just put the unit to work and operating temp. will clean the inards out the best. as the wear will accommodate the engine lubrication upstairs, such as valve guides.
when you have an engine with tight tolerances as a freshly rebuilt then mystery oil will provide help to the guides.
the last thing I would burn in an engine is auto trans oil as it has friction modifiers in it. like an injection pump don't need its very very tight clearances worn due to atf. better off just to add some 2 cycle oil to it. as that is what it is designed for.
so if you want to add a little lube give it some 2 cycle oil. just think those power saws run at a high rev. with only a 50:1 mixture. the piston and rings don't need a lot of oil.
now that has got me to thinking to get an oil saw and mix 50:1 auto trans and see what happens, and how long it will run.?
 
because it most likely needs a non -foaming oil.
auto trans oil is not the best oil to use in say hydraulic piston pumps as it does not provide the same lubrication as the hydraulic oil that is specified for them.
the engineers spend billions of dollars designing oils for different applications so that's the route a person should follow.
why not just put gear oil in your engine? or auto trans?
 
X2

At the race track, people would buy av gas, which has a very high TEL content, and then pour motor oil in it because it was "too dry". You can't convince people that a spark engine runs on a mixture of vaporized fuel and oxygen.
 
I think that theory is nothing but bunk. We have used and always will use the blended ethanol fuels...E10 is what they sell here in northern Minnesota. Our fleet of lightly used collector tractors sit all winter in a non heated storage with lots of temperature fluctuations from -40 to above zero and back each winter and they ALWAYS start right up in the spring with no water issues, crud in the tanks etc... The fuel tanks stay beautiful and clan. We add the red Sta-Bil and that is it for the winter. Not sure how the people who bash Ethanol get through a real winter without alcohol in your fuel...what do you think is in the bottles of Heet that you add...yep...alcohol! Ethanol makes water become part of the mix, it does not settle it out.
 
I have used it for tight parts or sticking valves.

Old jeep, New motor, valve started sticking, only thing that worked.

I changed to synthetic oil, helped but did not completely stop the sticking valve.

Old Napa counter man told me, with what you have done, the only thing left to try is MMM or do a head job on the engine.
Quart bottle, 1/2 in motor oil, 1/2 in gas tank.

In a few minutes the sticky valve problem was gone.
 

If you want the tank to stay clean and not condense moisture, keep the tank full. There is a reason that is in most older car owners manuals for what to do if you were storing the car.

If the tank is full, it will:
A. Balance the temp fluctuations a bit.
2. leave very very little space for the water to condense.

It cannot condense IN the fuel, it has to condense on tank steel that is not covered at the time with gasoline then drip into the fuel, or run down the sides of the tank.

Cheers!

RC
 

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