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Cub Cadet 102 Won't Start

D

dpoc

Member
Hello,

I have a Cub Cadet 102 that would shut off when it got hot. It would restart after it cooled down but would shut off again once it got hot. I checked for spark after it shut off and there was no spark. So I replaced the coil and condenser and now it won't start at all. Anyone see this before? Any ideas on what to do next to get it to run again? Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Setting the coil laminations distance to the magnet (Flywheel) is important. if it is out of spec, it will not run. If it is the thickness of a manilla file folder away, it should run. Make sure the ground (if it has one) is clean to the mounting screws. also be sure the safety switches are working, or bypassed. Jim
 
I am not sure, but I thought these engines (Kohler K241) had breaker points? Do they also have to be adjust for the "magnet" on the flywheel?
 
I am not looking at it, but if the coil is mounted to the engine to pick up magnetism from the flywheel, it does. Jim
 
A 102 should have battery ignition, battery, points and coil (at least mine does). Are points gapped? take off the cover and turn it over and see if they're opening and closing. While cranking spray gasoline or starting fluid into and see if it tries to run, if not trouble shoot your fuel system. Check for spark at the plug (if nothing else clamp the plug to the lifting lug hook up the wire and crank it over, should have a nice blue spark, while doing this you can also see if it's got compression (is it pumping air out the plug hole?)
 
The Kohlers have a push rod that rides on the cam and opens the points. Compare your push rod to a new one for length. I bet its worn just enough to cause issues.

The single cylinder Kohlers used in the IH made Cub Cadets DO NOT use any magnetic pickup from the flywheel.
 
As was posted, no magnetic pick up, points are operated by the cam.

I had a 125 that would shut off when it got hot. It turned out that the exhaust valve would seize up and stick open when it got hot. Short term fix that worked for me was putting some Marvel Mystery oil in the gas & oil (I know it's snake oil, but it worked for me), long term fix was to replace the valve. Turned out that the valve stem was slightly bent, no idea how it happened, but the new valve fixed it permanently.
 
Had the same problem as Red Dave with a 1200 that a neighbor gave me. Run for 3-5 minutes, then quit no matter what I did with the throttle or choke.

That one was a burned exhaust valve, but it had spark when it quit, so I don't think this is a valve problem.

Did you check for spark after you replaced the condenser and coil?
 
I always had trouble getting the points set just right with feeler gage. I finally started setting points by lining up the timing marks on the flywheel, put a spark plug in the wire and lay it on the cylinder head cover. Then I would turn on the key and adjust the points until I got a spark. If you wiggle the points and it keeps sparking, timing is about as close as you can get. I usually verify timing with a timing light after I tighten everything. All my flywheel timing marks get a spot of bright white paint to make them easier to see.

For those that have not tried this way, it works for me. I just delivered a 1200 and a 1450 last week done this way.
 
It is straight battery ignition system, remote mounted coil and condenser hooked right to points side of coil. The gap of the points is approx. .020 but you gap them as needed to time engine when running with timing light to fire on ign mark on flywheel. Yes, the breaker operating rod or pin does wear out and get shorter. If you get a good spark and it still dies out or starts backfiring when hot, you can look for sticking exhaust valve. IH issued a service bulletin on that problem and recommended reaming guide to clean it out. Did a few many years ago.
 
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