Hi everyone , so here is the jist of everything . I had to replace all the pistons roller bearings gaskets , also a full carb overhaul . The carb gets gas , but nothing to the plugs . It will run off a few squirts of starting fluid for the duration of the fluid but that's it . Any ideas suggestions ?
- Thread starter mjp9348
- Start date
Tom Fleming
Well-known Member
ok, what model is the tractor. Also, I believe you are missing a few comma's in your original post? roller bearings? Sounds like an F Series then..................
Nate V. IA
Member
Sounds like you need to go thru the carb again. Are you getting good suction thru the carb? Take the air cleaner pipe off at the carb, hold your hand over the hole, turn the engine over. It should suck you hand in.
Or if the cylinder walls are dry you might need to squirt some oil in the spark plug hole to help seal the rings.
Nate
Or if the cylinder walls are dry you might need to squirt some oil in the spark plug hole to help seal the rings.
Nate
I went over the carb 4 times since the major overhaul of the carb (everything inside the carb has been replaced new to spec per instructions) and the engine . I took the manifold off and resealed the manifold , the carb .. It has no suction . No leaks from the tractor head or anything ...
I pulled the plugs today and checked to see if it was spitting any water or fluid , and it was dry ..
The tractor is definitely a H , the roller bearings are on the piston shaft , they are plates that the cam spins inside of ..
I pulled the plugs today and checked to see if it was spitting any water or fluid , and it was dry ..
The tractor is definitely a H , the roller bearings are on the piston shaft , they are plates that the cam spins inside of ..
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
There are no roller bearing inside an H engine.If you do have roller bearings in there, you either don't have an H, or its some sort of modified aftermarket stuff, maybe for pulling? Anyways, no suction, how tight did you tighten down the valves?
Bill in NJ
Member
What model tractor are we talking about? If it's an 'H' keep in mind that that model does not have a fuel pump. It is gravity fed so your lines and carb inlet screen MUST be clear. O.K. so it will run on starter fluid but will not fun from gas through the carb. Will it start by pouring gas in the carb throat as you did with the starting fluid? If it does not run on that gas you probably have a weak spark or the timing is off. If it does run on that gas continue. You say the carb is getting gas. Is the gas getting in to the carb bowl? If not there is probably a stuck float or a clogged inlet screen. If there is gas in the carb bowl, there is probably a clogged jet. Have you screwed the jet screws in all the way and then backed them out 1 1/2 turns? Sounds like there might be something clogging the path that the gas follows in the carb. If the jets have been adjusted and it still will not start then remove the jet screws and try to blow air through the holes that the screws meter the gas into. You might have to very carefully try to feed a thin wire through those holes.
So I did a compression test , sitting at 90psi for all four cylinders . Yesterday I fixed the manifold and it wasn't pulling in any air , today its pulling air like no other ... so we are good on that aspect ..
I sprayed starting fluid on the manifold and the head while someone else was cranking to look for other leaks ? None , it didn't start ..
I sprayed the carb with starting fluid while someone else cranked and it started and burned the fluid but was backfiring out of the carb , shooting flames, I know yesterday when I was actually giving it a spray through the air intake it would back fire a huge majority of the oil in the canister out the top of the air intake cap . .. I just put new plugs in it before I did all this today and I pulled them out to see if they were wet , and still dry as a bone ...
When I rebuilt this carb I replaced everything inside the carb I bought a major rebuild kit .. I have tried to adjust the fuel adjusting needle , and the idle needle , but no difference no matter all the way open or closed .. the plugs are not getting fuel ..
I suppose I will open this carb up again , but is there anything I should look for or change , I really went to town on this carb and its not my first ever rebuild I have done it a hundred times before on a bunch of other engines ... Any help is Much appreciated .
I sprayed starting fluid on the manifold and the head while someone else was cranking to look for other leaks ? None , it didn't start ..
I sprayed the carb with starting fluid while someone else cranked and it started and burned the fluid but was backfiring out of the carb , shooting flames, I know yesterday when I was actually giving it a spray through the air intake it would back fire a huge majority of the oil in the canister out the top of the air intake cap . .. I just put new plugs in it before I did all this today and I pulled them out to see if they were wet , and still dry as a bone ...
When I rebuilt this carb I replaced everything inside the carb I bought a major rebuild kit .. I have tried to adjust the fuel adjusting needle , and the idle needle , but no difference no matter all the way open or closed .. the plugs are not getting fuel ..
I suppose I will open this carb up again , but is there anything I should look for or change , I really went to town on this carb and its not my first ever rebuild I have done it a hundred times before on a bunch of other engines ... Any help is Much appreciated .
Post a picture of this engine. Set the valve clearance at .019" cold and provided its the H Farmall engine bring No1 piston near the radiator
to TDC on the compression stroke. Then look at your rotor to see if its pointing to your No1 plug tower on the cap. If it is your plug wire should be connected to No1 sparkplug. As the rotor rotates CW your plug wires need to be in this firing order on your cap. Hal
2-1
4-3
to TDC on the compression stroke. Then look at your rotor to see if its pointing to your No1 plug tower on the cap. If it is your plug wire should be connected to No1 sparkplug. As the rotor rotates CW your plug wires need to be in this firing order on your cap. Hal
2-1
4-3
Hi Bill , I have a gas in the bowl , BUT I did Not Adjust the jet screws according to what you are saying . I just screwed them in per the directions to this carb kit , only thing it mentioned was where the float needs to be set , the travel distance which is 7/8 fuel level and 1 27/32 height of float from upper body .
All the jets are clean , even the screen is clean . But what I did notice when I did do the carb rebuild was the idle metering jet was almost flush with the 2 halves versus mine which I screwed all the way down. The discharger nozzle and nut as the directions say is just put in and tighten outside of carb nut .. but I am going to give this a try and go from there , as well as follow the other comments about inspecting the gap on the rockers .. I think I am getting closer to figuring this thing out , but who knows .. As far as the timing goes , It might be off , I am not sure , this tractor has all the original parts until now .. New coil and pistons and sleeves and carb rebuild . still has the original paint and decals not a single dent in the covers , just a little dent in the front grill cross support , nothing that cant be popped out .. I don't think it has ran in 10 years tho ...
All the jets are clean , even the screen is clean . But what I did notice when I did do the carb rebuild was the idle metering jet was almost flush with the 2 halves versus mine which I screwed all the way down. The discharger nozzle and nut as the directions say is just put in and tighten outside of carb nut .. but I am going to give this a try and go from there , as well as follow the other comments about inspecting the gap on the rockers .. I think I am getting closer to figuring this thing out , but who knows .. As far as the timing goes , It might be off , I am not sure , this tractor has all the original parts until now .. New coil and pistons and sleeves and carb rebuild . still has the original paint and decals not a single dent in the covers , just a little dent in the front grill cross support , nothing that cant be popped out .. I don't think it has ran in 10 years tho ...
The engine ran probably 10 years ago ... Throw parts at it , No , I am a mechanic I just don't throw parts at it ... The number 1 and 3 pistons were seized to the sleeves , I tried for weeks to unfreeze it and it was solid , I ended up replacing all 4 pistons and sleeves along with rebuilding the carburetor and replacing the coil because it was burned up .
I think I figured out what the problem is with this tractor , I noticed today as I was setting the rockers , that there was a piece of metal in the manifold that was broken off .. I am assuming the engine is pulling gas but its shooting out the exhaust when I am cranking when I do shoot it with starting fluid it grabs enough to ignite but its blowing back through the carb as well as the exhaust .. Its just a theory .. but the piece of metal I did pull out was almost 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide and looking like a piece of the pipe , not build up from years of running .
I think I figured out what the problem is with this tractor , I noticed today as I was setting the rockers , that there was a piece of metal in the manifold that was broken off .. I am assuming the engine is pulling gas but its shooting out the exhaust when I am cranking when I do shoot it with starting fluid it grabs enough to ignite but its blowing back through the carb as well as the exhaust .. Its just a theory .. but the piece of metal I did pull out was almost 2 inches long by 1/2 inch wide and looking like a piece of the pipe , not build up from years of running .
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