Delco 10si hookup help.

PretendFarmer · Aug 12, 2014

I'm a little confused here. I hooked up the batt terminal straight to the positive side of the battery. Then I hooked the number one(r)to switched ignition power. Finally I hooked up the number 2(f)terminal to the batt lug.

When I ran the tractor it seemed as if the alternator was putting quite a load on the motor. Also when I tempted to shut the tractor off, it would not shut off I had to shut the gas off. Do I need to put a diode between number 1 terminal and the switched power to prevent backfeed? If so what's the most ideal one?

old · Aug 12, 2014

Yes you need a diode I use Radio Shack 276-1661. The silver line goes towards the alternator

Dalex · Aug 12, 2014

Yes , you need the diode or a resistor. Check on
the Ford N-board , that diagram and info comes up
alot.

Bob M · Aug 12, 2014

My preference is to stick a #168 or equivalent side marker/instrument panel lamp between the ign switch and the #1 terminal.

Advantage is it will work same as the alternator warning lamp in your car's dash, lighting up if the alternator fails, the fan belt breaks, etc.

mkirsch · Aug 12, 2014

The way you had it hooked up you were trying to boil the battery dry...

Problem with going straight to the battery is you have no idea what's going on. Run it through the ammeter.

John T · Aug 12, 2014

In order to prevent the tractor from running on even if you turn off the ignition, in the "excitation circuit" from a hot when IGN on source (Ign switches IGN output or coil input) to the alternators small No 1 side terminal, some use a diode, but I prefer EITHER a 10 ohm 5 watt resistor or an Idiot Light (as Bob M noted) because it provides some degree of current limiting, its not polarity sensitive like a diode is, and is cheap, easy and simpler to wire.

The small No 2 terminal is the "voltage sense" and I usually just jump wire that to the big main alternator output stud.

The big main output I use No 10 wire up to an ammeter if it has one or else to the hot + ungrounded battery post, often via where the big battery cable attaches to a starter switch or solenoid input.

John T

souNdguy · Aug 12, 2014

how he had it hooked up was not contribuiting to boiling the battery. the alt has an internal vreg. it would charge the same way ran thru an ammeter or not.

his only problem was no ignition isolation on the #1 line.

John T · Aug 13, 2014

"it would charge the same way ran thru an ammeter or not."

EXACTLY as you know, but to explain to some others, an ammeter is a straight pass through very low resistance 2 terminal (In Out) device and an "ideal" ammeter would have ZERO ohms resistance. An "ideal" voltmeter would have INFINITY resistance so as to not affect the measurement. Its not (electrically speaking) much more then the wire from the charging device to the battery so it doesn't affect (other then very small resistance) charging.

John T Loves sparky chat well DUH

Anonymous-0 · Aug 13, 2014

Did that for a feller years ago on a 1650 Oliver. That glow up behind the alternator when the key was on but it was not yet running was a source of comfort when it went out right after he started.

PretendFarmer · Aug 13, 2014

Got the diode hooked up and it works great. Alternator is charging good.

Delco 10si hookup help.

PretendFarmer

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old

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Dalex

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Bob M

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mkirsch

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John T

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souNdguy

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John T

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Anonymous-0

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PretendFarmer

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