Hey guys recently bought a super C and someone had coverted it to a 12 volt system. well after driving for about 6 mile it quit and there was not spark. I think it was the coil and I have purchased a new 12 volt coil my question is can I remove the resistor that was I'm place or do I have to change the condenser in the distributed cap to?
- Thread starter Zwepper34
- Start date
Make sure the coil says, "no external resistor required" before you remove the resistor.
Some "12V" coils require an external ballast resistor. This has to be because stupid people were driving the guys at NAPA crazy when the parts guy handed them a 6V coil. "But.... my car is 12V! How can that work?!?!"
Some "12V" coils require an external ballast resistor. This has to be because stupid people were driving the guys at NAPA crazy when the parts guy handed them a 6V coil. "But.... my car is 12V! How can that work?!?!"
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Trouble shoot then parts NEVER the other way around. Your problem could be as simple as a loose wire or the point slipped etc. Simple test no meter needed is take the ignition side wire off the coil. Turn on ignition then touch that wire back to the coil make sure the points are closed. If you get a spark you have either no problem of a short. Next open the points and try that again. If you have a spark with the points open you have a short in the distributor
"I think it was the coil and I have purchased a new 12 volt coil my question is can I remove the resistor that was I"m place or do I have to change the condenser in the distributed cap to?"
The coil is NOT usually my first suspect when she quits firing. The FIRST suspect is the points are burned or pitted, so check that first.
You CAN remove an external ballast resistor IFFFFFFFFF the new coil is a true 12 volt coil. It may be labeled 12 volts or 12 volts NO ballast required.
Condensors do go bad but not that often, I still suspect pointss before the coil and condenser
John T
The coil is NOT usually my first suspect when she quits firing. The FIRST suspect is the points are burned or pitted, so check that first.
You CAN remove an external ballast resistor IFFFFFFFFF the new coil is a true 12 volt coil. It may be labeled 12 volts or 12 volts NO ballast required.
Condensors do go bad but not that often, I still suspect pointss before the coil and condenser
John T
John M
Well-known Member
- Location
- Nunyafn business
The coil will get warm, but not so hot you cant touch it. I cant think of one instance where Ive had the points cause any of my tractors to just shut off. Maybe act up spit and sputter first, but not just die going up the road.
Had the same exact thing happen to my "H". Turned out the battery was stone dead, because the 12-v alternator internal voltage regulator was not working. [As I remember.] I left that alone, but I installed a very economical diode assembly from a man named CharlieU, started charging immediately, prlblem has been solved for years now. Might not be your problem, but it might if the battery is dead.
Hey guys I exchanged the original coil I bought for one that is aftermarket and does not require a resistor put it on and it fired up right away. I took the old resistor off and it was broken.... Guess i found the problem anyway resistors are 12 buck and the coil was 20 so I'm just going to go with the coil by itself to make things simpler thanks for the help
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