Delco-Remy Voltage Regulator Adjusting/Testing

I have now completely re-wired my 1950 H and installed a new battery. It still has the original Delco-Remy generator and saddle mounted cut-out relay (#'s 1101355 and 1116766). I've polarized the generator. With the lights on, I see that the ammeter swing to 'discharge'. After some time with the lights on and letting the battery drain, I switch to high charge. At this time I hear a 'buzzing' from the cut-out relay. When I take the cover off, I notice arcing between the points - the solenoid doesn't pull in. It looks like she wants to charge.

I found some Delco-Remy documents online that mention adjusting the gap, adjusting the pull-in, etc., but nothing specific.

Does anyone know how to go about adjusting the cut-out relay?

It seems like mine needs adjusting - it appears to want to charge, but can't close the contacts.

Could it be generator related?

Are there some easy tests?
 
If the gap is more than .030", tighten it up with the constraining tab. If the gap is small already, reduce the spring tension. It takes very very little reduction to make a big difference. Make sure the tension reduction still causes the points to open at about 3 to 4 amps discharge when the engine is shut off. if it does not it will allow
the battery to drain, possibly letting the smoke out of the gen. Jim
 
Sounds like the trouble is with the cut-out rather than any other part of the system. First thing is to make absolutely sure that the cut-out has a perfect ground. Remember that paint is an even worse electrical conductor than rust and corrosion.

Rudi's manual server is the place to go for specifics on adjusting the cut-out.
http://www.cleancomputes.com/Cub/Blue Ribbon Service Manuals/index.html
This page is an index for multiple service manuals. Three of them have "electrical" in the title. GSS-1310 is more of the theory and how things work. Either of the other two GSS-1012 or GSS-1052-C has the adjustment detail you are looking for.
 
With the engine running ground the field to see if the points close. You can adjust points like other post says. Also make sure the points are clean. Measure the volts coming off the gen when engine is running and points on the cut-out are closed. I have several cut-outs on the Cubs,As and Bs that i have. Also use a meter and put one lead on the Gnd at the battery then go to the knob on the lite sw then to gen then to the cut-out as they all need to have a chassis grnd to operate. Trouble can sometimes be at the lite sw where it fastens to the post thats why checking all parts in the system need to be checkd for chassis ground.
 
The correct way to adjust a cutout is using an analog volt meter. You hook it to the armature terminal of generator or cutout and while very gradually increasing the speed of the generator watch the voltage build. It should build to .2 to.5 volts ABOVE battery voltage and at that point the points will close. There will then be a drop in voltage so you have to have a keen eye on the needle of gauge to know what it was. You increase or decrease spring tension to obtain this. Then you slow generator down again to see if points open. You can insert an ammeter in the battery side of cutout and observe the reverse current flowing at the time points open. If too many amp, open gap, too touchy, close gap. Don't file or clean points with battery wire connected. Do not close points manually, causes arcing. If it does not operate like intended, you have open windings or poorly grounded unit.

On a side note, I once upon a time ran into a new cutout that was wired wrong internally. Customer brought it in after another shop could not get it to work. When the contacts closed it literally arc welded. The windings were bucking it in the hold down position instead of when voltage of generator decreased.
 
By the way your generator has an adjustable third brush for final out-put if you are using a mag you only need a couple amps on regular charge if you have a dist you want it to show around 5 amps.
 

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