1938 Farmall F-20 Cylinders Removal

Hello, I am restoring a Farmall F-20. I know that it has wet cylinder sleeves, but I don't know how to remove them. Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
You need to have a puck machined to fit the inner diameter of the sleeve and enough clearance on the
outside diameter to clear the block. Here's what Keith made for his Super C sleeve removal. Hal
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You don't need anything that fancy unless they have been welded in by rust, meaning the head has been removed and years of water has rusted them in.

An old geezer taught me to use a block of wood, preferably made from oak, but I have been know to use pine and it works ok. Remove the piston out the bottom of the engine, and using this block of wood against the bottom of the sleeve, tap on the wood block with a small sledge. The sleeve just has to move about 3/8 of an inch on the top and it will come free; about an inch on the bottom and the same will be true. Wet sleeves mean that they are relieved in the middle of the outside diameter of the sleeve and once they are moved past the part that touches the block, they will slide right out. Dry sleeves are a bugger as the whole outside diameter contacts the block.

Make sure you replace the O-rings in the block; if not you will most likely be taking the engine apart to replace them anyways as water will leak into the oil pan. Never had one not leak when I cut corners.
 
No, after all these years they pull pretty hard. I've broken my puller a couple times. But do you need them out? Unless you are replacing them I would leave them alone.
 

I have torn apart a number of F20 engines where the head was still on the engine and the sleeves still pressed out HARD! Years of use with plain water in the cooling system rusted the sleeves to the block and filled the cooling system half full of rust flakes!
 
all of them I have pulled out have come HARD, and all you are gonna do with a wood block is make toothpicks. I have a puller and usually have to give them an assist with a sledge hammer or air hammer from the bottom because the puller on its own just doesn't have enough umph to break them loose. Nebraska Kirk has the best setup I have seen , wish I had that. You will usually find at least a couple inches of crud cementing them in at the bottom of the block. Where are you located, maybe someone on here is close by that has a puller.
 
I only PRESS mine out with a hydraulic press. there have been a couple engines in that press that used ALL 30 tons of power to break them loose. that makes a hell of a boom when it does break loose!

ive also had some with rust scale built up so bad they had to be pressed the entire way out of the block
 

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