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Bars leak stop leak update

P

Patrick HMD

Member
Back in January, after replacing the water jacket cover, I noticed water seeping out through the gasket in several places. So I asked the forum for opinions on bars leaks. As expected the responses were 50% yea, 50% nay. So with about 50% claiming good results, I thought I'd take a chance and give it a try.

The directions call for half a bottle. After 2 days, no change, so I dumped the whole bottle in as per directions. After a couple of weeks, still leaking. Well, so much for bars leak I thought.

I dreaded the thought of having to break it down again (carb, manifold, throttle linkage etc., etc.) to get to the gasket, and kept putting it off. Well, after a month or so of putting it off, one day I noticed no more leaks. Everything still bone dry to this day.

So the lesson learned here is give it more time to work.

There's a bunch of different kinds for different applications. Here's what I used. Bought it at Autozone. Just thought I'd share.



Best regards
Patrick
'49M
 
(quoted from post at 16:04:15 06/04/14)
So far, so good, as the old saying goes. Darn tractor runs super cold according to my temp. gauge.
Click to expand...

I used the silver powder stuff In a radiator that was seeping just a bit. Put 1/2 vial in and no more leaks
 
Here is something to think about....

I had the same problem with a W-4 and a Super W-6 after I removed the water headers. They were seeping from a couple of places around the header. I don't like to use Bar's Leak or any other stop leak products for that matter. So after some thought I decided to run them with the leaks, knowing that there is a certain amount of debris in the cooling systems of all of these old tractors even though I removed as much rust and sediment as I could when the header was off. After a couple of weeks, they both stopped leaking and have never leaked since. I suspect that once the gasket got wet and then some debris from the cooling system made it's way into the leaks all was well.
 
Good point there Red Mercury. Maybe if I had waited, the leaks might have eventually fixed themselves. Never thought of it from that perspective. It's just that rusty water was really starting to stain up my shiny new red paint, and that was freaking me out. My main focus at the time was to get those leaks fixed quick. HA!

Best regards
Patrick
'49M
 
I too had an antifreeze leak on my newly completely
overhauled and painted 450G. It was coming from my
new water jacket cover. I originally used a new
gasket with permatex. I removed the cover (without
removing carb) and cleaned but this time only used
only permatex#3 and no leaks.
 
I have opened up two tractors without waterpumps (thermo syphon systems) one a JD A and one an IH C that people socked the old Bahrs Leak to; found HUGE clumps of the stuff in water jackets and at all low points in cooling system, bottom line is not enough pressure to get it spread around, Since then I have never used it even on pressurized systems because I wonder how much its reducing flow in tight places like in the radiator tubes. It may be a good product, but actually fixing the problem seems better in the long run.
 
Many time, permatex will seal the gasket after a couple of warm up and cool down periods. Have seen that many times of those rusted up thermostat and water headers where you cannot get a perfect sealing surface. Far as block sealer etc. I rebuilt a 3020 Deere diesel some years back. It had been leaking around liner O-rings for quite some time. They had poured so much block sealer in there the block was almost full to the top. Still leaked.
 
Believe it or not all automotive manufacturer's call for some
form of stop leak to be used in they cooling system when
assembled new from the factory. You can find that in any
dealer service manual.
 
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