Hand-start 39 Farmall A

I've got my A to run, have to pull start it, engine hardly turn over and it fires right off. I can not for the life of me get it to start by hand. It seems like I have the spark too far advanced, it kicks back sometimes awful fierce. Set it up just like the book calls for using the timing mark on the flywheel and cover, move mag until it clicks and tighten down, did not let it slip. Is there some way to use a timing light to check the timing? I've been parking it on the pool dam and letting it roll-start. Works great, but sometimes I might park it somewhere else. Ay help will be appreciated. I do have an extra torque tube from a later model B with starter that I can change out but hate to modify it.
 
If it is kicking back, it does sound like the timing is too far advanced.

Is the impulse on the magneto working properly?
 
You need to make a mark on the body of the mag where #1 wire goes to the plug. Now remove the cap and turn the engine over till the rotor stops at that position if the rotor doesent stop at the mark you need to remove the cover where the gears are that turn the rotor and line up the rotor so it is on that mark when it stops just before it snaps and your engine will start good with the crank as the mag fires on TDC you dont want the rotor snaping before or after the mark. That will solve your cranking problems and kicking back ect.
 
Gene; the spark occurs when the points open. Changing the rotor timing won't change the timing. Move the whole mag to fine tune it. Time those gears on the C mark.
 
Try turning the flywheel with a bar or screwdriver and watch where the mark is when the mag snaps. Sounds like it is too early.
 
when I'm timing tractors that will be crank started occasionally, with marks far away from the crank handle....
#1 TDC compression, find the mark underneath, align it,
mark the front pulley and cover with a paint pen to correspond.
Time the mag by the book moving it till it snaps.
Now with the plugs out turn the crank handle slowly, watching your paint marks to verify, under engine actually turning situation.
When the paint lines meet, and the snap is right on em, you are good, for #1 and next turn #4.
Start it up and clip your timing light on #1 wire, to verify that your marks are now offset some to make sure the advance is working.
 
(quoted from post at 12:37:06 06/05/14) when I'm timing tractors that will be crank started occasionally, with marks far away from the crank handle....
#1 TDC compression, find the mark underneath, align it,
mark the front pulley and cover with a paint pen to correspond.
Time the mag by the book moving it till it snaps.
Now with the plugs out turn the crank handle slowly, watching your paint marks to verify, under engine actually turning situation.
When the paint lines meet, and the snap is right on em, you are good, for #1 and next turn #4.
Start it up and clip your timing light on #1 wire, to verify that your marks are now offset some to make sure the advance is working.

I don't have an A, but if the mag is like the H-4 mag on the big tractors, there is a timing mark on the rotor gears. The beveled tooth needs to be right on the dot. Mine was one tooth back and hard to start. Had flame coming from the exhaust, too.
 
I dont car about points opening but the rotor does need to be lined up with the tower when it snaps and there is now way of moving the mag to advance the timing all you are doing when you move the mag is loading the spring for the impulse. Ive fixed too many mags and run 7 on my tractors and the rotor does need to be lined up with the tower when it impulses and he only way to get any advance starting would be to move he rotor gear. Just worked on one they converted to 12v because it wouldnt start on 6v by running 12v on the starter it would spin fast enough to start. Rotor was off 2 teeth.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top