F12 Power Lift Pump

I may have messed up. During the teardown of my F12 I removed the Power Lift Pump. I'm in the process now of reassembling the tractor, the most of it is primed and painted in pieces as I reassemble. Yesterday I went to reinstall the pump itself, which is held in place by (3) 5/8" cap screws. There are also (2) 5/16" studs, originating off a carrier of some sort, back behind the spline shaft nut. The 5/16" studs slide thru the pumps rear cover as the whole pump slides into the main gear case. Problem I'm having is they won't come on thru. The carrier ends up sliding back on the splined shaft. I know it's hard to describe, and I have added a cropped closeup picture that shows what I'm talking about. Looking for some pointers or tips from someone that's been down this road before. I really don't understand their purpose. Once the pump is mounted with the (3) cap screws it seems to me the pump driven shaft coupling is locked firmly onto the splined shaft cap nut. I just don't understand why they're needed or how to get them on through the housing. As you push the pump into the gear case they slide back...probably a 1/4" shy of coming on thru the rear pump housing. I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions. Sorry for the long rambling post...



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The pump is driven by the nut, the bearing is supported by the pump, the bolts hold a flange that keeps the bearing and shaft in place and aligned. You have to pull the top to hold the flange to put the 2 bolts in. I just made up a couple of threaded rods and used put them on first, then put nuts on the threaded rod. This way I didn't have to pull the top off. Sorry I don't have any pics of it, and the pic in the parts book isn't much help, as it looks funky the way its drawn.I think that part is called the bearing retainer, or some such thing, and I think its to keep the whole shaft from moving around. Iqwish I could find the thread I had about this very same issue back in 05.

Thank you John for that insight. I was pondering on trying to braze a couple small pieces of bare welding rod or something to the ends to make them longer, then I could just cut them off once I had the pump mounted. I hadn't considered replacing the bolts completely. I won't take much more, perhaps another 3/8" or 1/2" would do it. I don't really want to take the top off either, at this late stage in the game. Now I just got to see for myself what's involved in getting the old bolts/studs out and adding something longer. Thanks again...

And you're right, these units aren't detailed very well in either of the three manuals I have...

I've also been down that road. I wrapped some small string around the threads of the studs and fed it through the holes of the pump housing. As you install the pump just pull on the strings to pull the studs through. Otherwise you won't ever get them lined up or pulled through enough to get a nut on them. John is right. That is a bearing retainer to keep the bearing in place as the pump is driven off of the nut on the end of the shaft. Tighten them up evenly.

Don't remove top cover. It is simpler than that. Unbolt and remove shifter. Then take a pry bar or piece of steel and reach down through shifter hole and hold bearing plate with the studs to the left while sliding pump on. It is easy to do and a lot less time consuming than pulling top cover.

I thought about trying to tie some small monofilament fishing line to them, but wasn't sure my crazy idea would work. I was afraid of taking the shifter off for fear of opening up another can of worms so to speak. I appreciate ya'lls input and suggestions. I'll let you know how it works out in a couple evenings!


Here's a picture of it from weekend before last, pretty much as it sits now...

I tried that with a long screwdriver I had, but wasn't able to get the tip on the retainer. It was all I had with me at the time, but Im sire I could have rigged up something to get down in there like you said.

Dusty are you going to rebuild the pump, or is it more for decoration, like mine is? If I fill the reservoir on mine, it will eventually drain back into the trans. Feller on here told me to put gear oil in and it seeps a little slower than regular 30wt, and the arms still move. I guess my pump is wore out, since I can stop movement of the arms just by grabbing them when they are moving!

John I don't know if mine works or not. I took it apart and didn't see any reason why it wouldn't work, unless there is something in the lift unit itself.

I bought this tractor last summer. It was an older restoration, having previously been sandblasted and painted. THOUGHT it was just gonna be an easy job. I bought it as a non-runner, with potential mag and fuel pump issues. Got it home and found both the block and the head cracked. I found another donor block and head, with matching serial number tag on the rear gas tank support. Mine was missing completely.

The stamped casting date on my lift unit is July of '36, the engine and head going back in it, and the matching tag will be '34. Here's a "before" picture...

Just thought I'd follow up on this post. I pulled the gear shift lever out and used a very long straight blade screwdriver. I took the pump back off and moved the retainer around so I could get a good hold on it with the screwdriver. A good flashlight was also helpful, a trouble light just wouldn't do it. The retainer bolts slide in easy with just a little bit of pressure.
Thank you all for the tips...

I still think I have an issue with my F-12 that I didn't discover until this weekend.

As my old thread indicates, I ended removing the shifter to hold the bearing retainer in place while I mounted the pump back up. The I reinstalled the shifter.

This weekend I noticed that I can't "find Neutral" on the transmission. Regardless of where I position the shifter I cannot turn the input shaft without it wanting to turn the rear wheels.

I THOUGHT I was careful not to change the alignment of anything while I was poking around in there. Any suggestions?

Here's a picture of how it sits now.

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