Carter UT/ Farmall 200 no start stall

What is the float setting on a carter UT on a 200 and more importantly how do you set it. Where do you take the measurements from. From the float from the tang. With the needle open or closed.

Having a problem with my 200. It will run good for a few days then sometimes it will stall and not start. Problem persisted after changing points and condenser. Cleaning and regapping plugs and changing to another coil which I believe is good (spark looked the same between the 2 coils. Plug wires are newer and ohmed out good. Ran a wire from positive battery to the positive coil to eliminate wiring being faulty. I also took the carb apart and clean it real good. Spark looks ok and it will not restart with a shot of either. Seems like alot of gas coming out the weep hole in bottom of carb when trying to restart so I want to try and set the float. Probably time to take a compression reading too. Problem seems to have come to ahead because before it would stall out, but with a little coaxing I could get it running, now it will not start at all.

Clint

Compression is within 3 lbs of 150 on each cylinder so that is not the issue.

I went round and round trying to get a carter carb on a Super
C to run correctly for any length of time. Some parts are not
available for it. I'd get it running great for several months then
it would act up again.

Upon advice of others on this column I pitched it and put a
Zenith carb on 4-5 years ago and haven't had a problem since.

I wouldn't spend too much time or money on that carb.

Dean slowly leaning to that assumption. The float is good in mine so I should be able to sell the carb to someone who wants the "right" one for a little.

Are you sure you have the plug wires in the correct firing order on the cap and to the correct
sparkplugs? Should be in this firing order: Hal

2-1
4-3 As the rotor rotates CW. With No1. plug near the radiator. Rub the points with some wet or dry 320. Is the battery fully charged? If the voltage drops too much during cranking you may not have enough voltage for your ignition. Try pull starting to see if will start. Hal

I forgot the space between my handle. Hal

(quoted from post at 11:12:23 05/17/14) I forgot the space between my handle. Hal

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Could not get it started for anything all morning . Cleaned the points with a $ bill and it fired right up. Drove it home to the shop from the farm ran great. Shut it down and it sat for 1/2 hour, back to not starting again. Cleaned the points again, sure as anything fired right up. Should not have to clean them every time I start it. Any thoughts..........

(quoted from post at 13:39:38 05/17/14)

(quoted from post at 11:12:23 05/17/14) I forgot the space between my handle. Hal

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Could not get it started for anything all morning . Cleaned the points with a $ bill and it fired right up. Drove it home to the shop from the farm ran great. Shut it down and it sat for 1/2 hour, back to not starting again. Cleaned the points again, sure as anything fired right up. Should not have to clean them every time I start it. Any thoughts..........

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Oil seal in the distributer is letting oil seep in, and it gets on the points. Or possibly, the vent in the oil fill cap is plugged, causing the engine to build pressure, and pushing oil past the oil seal in the distributer.

Do as Rusty suggested and look for an oil film. You may need a rebuilt distributor. If you ever decide to pull the distributor note and make a sketch where your rotor is pointing THEN DON"T MOVE THE ENGINE. When you're ready to reinstall the distributor rotate the rotor to the point shown in your sketch and install it. Should start after you connect battery voltage to your distributor. Hal

I had that problem on a Ford Mustang with oil in the distributor. I bought a rebuilt distributor
from our Ford dealer. That wasn't the only problem it kept fouling sparkplugs. I borrow a borescope light from work and I never seen so much
carbon in an engine. I had to rebuild the engine. Hal

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That thought crossed my mind, there is some oily residue in there, but nothing I would call a film or even too excessive for a 60 plus year old machine. I do grease the points block every now and then too. IIRC there has always been a bit in there for as long as I can remember when changing or checking points.
It really could be an option though.
I want to run it hard for a while and see if it starts by running well and then slowly gets bad. I ran it back to the farm and back again and then let it sit and it started back up so we will see.

Doe anyone know what a 12v internally resisted coil should ohm out at . Mine is around 3.5. between the 2 posts

Gas coming out weep hole means carb is flooding from too much choke. You say you cleaned carb but is the idle circut clean just because you can blow air doesent mean its completely clean sometimes you need small drill bits by hand to get ALL pasages clean. I use a small mag lite to shine thru passages to make sure they are all completely clean. I have a couple of Carters they work just fine. Is the timing rite on and a good starter and batt system makes a big differnce in a good starting engine then people blame gas ect for poor starting. Maybe thats why they keep bringing me the old Cs Bs ect.

(quoted from post at 03:04:50 05/18/14) Gas coming out weep hole means carb is flooding from too much choke. You say you cleaned carb but is the idle circut clean just because you can blow air doesent mean its completely clean sometimes you need small drill bits by hand to get ALL pasages clean. I use a small mag lite to shine thru passages to make sure they are all completely clean. I have a couple of Carters they work just fine. Is the timing rite on and a good starter and batt system makes a big differnce in a good starting engine then people blame gas ect for poor starting. Maybe thats why they keep bringing me the old Cs Bs ect.

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Well Gene yesterday after reading a few of your posts I took a piece of welding wire are really ran it through all holes good. That's when it started to run after cleaning the points and it seems to be starting well now. I will disc the garden this week and see. It seems to run better now and will idle on the lowest notch of the throttle smoother.