51 SUPER C DISTRIBUTOR

OIL IS SHOWING UP IN MY DISTRIBUTOR . HOW DO I FIX THIS AND WOULD IT BE BETTER TO PUT AN ELEC. IGNIG. SET UP IN THERE,,WILL THE OIL AFFECT THE ELEC. IGNI. LIKE IT AFFECTS THE RUNNING NOW.
THANKS GUYS

First, check and clean the crankcase breather.

There is an o-ring at the bottom of the distributor. New part # is 86637641 at your favorite IH dealer.
If you choose to remove the distributor, rotate the engine so the rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap; the timing pointer should be lined up with the TDC notch on the front pulley.
Much easier to put back later.

TDC mark is on the flywheel, not on the pulley on a Super C.

You are correct; I was just working on a 200 so had a brain f**t.!
the flywheel marks are very faint so use a good light.

No need to look at the flywheel.

If you shine a light down into the #1 spark plug hole you can SEE the piston come up to TDC.

Just remove the plug, stick your thumb over the hole, rotate until air starts pushing out, then watch it come up on TDC.

These engines turn easy enough you can rotate them with the fan as long as the belt's somewhat tight.

If oil is getting forced into the distributor it is due to either over greasing the gears in the reduction drive adapter or the rear seal is leaking on the hydraulic pump. Over greasing the distributor shaft will not cause this since any extra grease is forced out the hole opposite the zerk hole.

There is no way the hydraulic pump can leak oil in the dist. It is on the block below.

Pull the cap off and remove the rotor. It mounts on a shaft that
is hollow. It has a piece of felt inside it to put a couple of drops
of oil in to lub the bearing in the bottom. Someone may have
gotten carried away with the oil can. It is at least worth taking a
look at.

Removing & re-installing distributer-
Another method that works for me if the following conditions apply.
1- will be reinstalling the same distributer
2- no one will be turning the engine during the process.
3- timing is correct before starting repairs.
If so, quick & dirty method. No need to locate timing marks, turn engine to TDC, etc.
Remove cap, make matching scratch marks on rotor tip & dist body with a screwdriver tip or your pocket knife.
Make similar matching marks at the timing adjustment.
DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT!
Remove dist & do whatever needs to be done.
Put dist back in, lining up the new matching marks.
If timing was correct before, when you put everything back where it was, it will be correct again.
Lots of people shake their heads at my method. No hard feelings on my part. Old time mechanic at truck dealer taught me this.
Sidebar: Also when replacing plug wires. Sit on radiator with feet on frame rails each side of engine. Grab the whole mess of old wires & throw on floor. No 1 wire goes in "this" spot on cap, no 8 is next to it, & so on around cap in firing order. Start it up, everything will be in time.
Willie

(quoted from post at 20:47:19 05/01/14) There is no way the hydraulic pump can leak oil in the dist. It is on the block below.

Click to expand...

You're right, still thinking about the larger tractors. I should have known better since I have a Super C with a woods mower.