3 pt. hitch hookup on Farmall M

I just put a 3 pt hitch on my M and I'm not sure how to hook up the Hyd. lines. the 3 pt has two cylinders. My manual says one cylinder to the front out put on the left side of the tractor and the other cylinder to the right side elbow. The output elbow on the right side has a "T" on it. One side of the "T" has a plug in it and the other end goes up to a control valve. two lines come from the control valve and go to the back of the tractor and stop there. I took the plug out of the "T" and hooked the other cylinder to it. When I pull the lever to turn on the Hyd. pump it won't lift the 3 pt. when I leave the pump on and pull the other control valve lever back the 3pt goes up, when I release the lever to the center the 3pt goes down and when I push the lever forward the 3pt goes up too. I tried unhooking that control valve and just using the output elbow only for the 3pt cylinder and when I pull the rod to turn on the Hyd. pump the 3pt goes up but wont come down and I think if I keep going up it would have blown the line. I had to unhook the line to get the 3pt to come down (and oil all over lol) does anyone know what I'm doing wrong ?
 
If you have the IH type remote control valve to have pressure at the side ports. Lever on the control valve needs locked in the position so that the little latch under the lever will keep it from going to center. That keeps the oil from circulating back to the reservoir and having no pressure to the side ports. Then when you pull the pump rod back the hitch should raise and go down when the rod is pushed forward provided you have nothing hooked to the remote lines. Other port on the lift cylinders needs to breath with only one pressure line used. Or if you have double acting cylinders just use tees and plumb the remote control valve to the lift cylinders. That way you have up and down pressure. Trouble is you can't use both the 3 point and the remote control valve at the same time with that setup.
 
sounds like you have a christmas tree valve on the belly pump, giving you two way hydraulics. the two lines going to the rear of the tractor are the ones you want to use. tie the input lines going to the top of the 3 point cylinders together, and tee them in to one of the rear outputs, then tie the lower to inputs together and tee them in to the other rear outputs. that will give you two way hydraulics to the 3 point. i used pioneer couplers to make the rear output connections so the hitch can be dis-connected if need be. here are a few pics of my set up on my m. i have a char -lynn spool valve, instead of the christmas tree, but they work the same. there is a third hydraulic line on the back of my m, that is for one way hydraulics for a dump wagon.

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
DSCF1936.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF1936.jpg"
</a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
DSCF1935.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF1935.jpg"
</a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
DSCF1934.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF1934.jpg"
</a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
DSCF1933.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF1933.jpg"
</a>

oh, and the belt pulley is driving a 260 amp dc welder

<a href="http://photobucket.com/" target="_blank">
DSCF1930.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DSCF1930.jpg"
</a>
 
Good...That's the exact same 3pt hitch I got. I was wondering about leaving on the draw bar too. I see how you did yours. I might change mine like yours so I have down pressure too . Thank You Mike
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top