806 starting

I would like some in put from some people that have a little experience with the older ih tractors.I have a 806 diesel that starts a little on the hard side the only other symptom it has it smokes until it gets warmed up good.it don't use any oil and has plenty of power and is comparable to my other 806 some people tell me the head needs to be planed others tell me the injection pump needs to be gone thru any experience would greatly appreciated

(quoted from post at 20:38:12 04/11/14) I would like some in put from some people that have a little experience with the older ih tractors.I have a 806 diesel that starts a little on the hard side the only other symptom it has it smokes until it gets warmed up good.it don't use any oil and has plenty of power and is comparable to my other 806 some people tell me the head needs to be planed others tell me the injection pump needs to be gone thru any experience would greatly appreciated

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Blue smoke, white smoke, or black smoke? Any visible slobber out the exhaust? IH RD or Roosamaster/Standyne pump?

These heads can be planed, but not a whole lot without doing some modificaitons. I don't have a book in front of me, but IIRC you could only take a few thousandths off of the head before you run into piston to valve clearance issues.

AG

its white smoke and yes a lot of slober if it idles a lot like on a auger lot of white smoke when going down hill or a push be hind it think it's raw fuel roosamaster but not sure

Get it warm and work the snot out of it for 15-20 hours and see if it gets better. Watch the coolant level, white smoke is indicative of water getting into the combustion chamber, possible head gasket or crack in the block or head.

That sounds like injectors. That would be an easy/cheap place to start anyway.....just pull them out and have them checked.

Good possibility that the valves are sunk in the head. 361 and 407 are know, when the valves are sunk they start hard. If you have the head done plane it and do a complete valve job with new hardware. Use the min. Spec when doing the head. It also could be pump and injectors.

White smoke at initial startup can mean a cold cylinder but should go away after a bit of running. Also an injector tube could be leaking coolant. A good way to know if the valves are at fault, the warmer it gets outside the easier it should start. If you start it and let it run for just a few seconds, then shut engine off, then try to restart, will it start right ack up?

I have a 1965 806D with IH RD pump. Engine underhauled at 6000 hrs. Now has a little over 10000 hrs. Still uses virtually no oil. If you are having trouble starting your tractor, try this. I open my throttle to wide open throttle position and start cranking. You are flooding cylinders with fuel. In cold weather when I see a good amount of white smoke coming out exhaust I give a tiny snort of either and we are running . This tractor starts as good or better than my 4850 Deere when it is cold. It's worth a try, sometimes it is technique.

Hard starting on a D361 can be caused BY (1) valve ression , this is cause by (1) due to length of time since the tractor has been over hauled and the head rebuilt . (2) improper head rebuild and valves set to deep in the head , cure to this is having the head rebuilt by someone that can read and understand just how far from the serface of the head that the valves should stand out .(3) cranking speed , is the started turning the correct RPM , are the batterys of the correct cranking amps. (4) injector cracking pressure and spray patter, injection pump cranking pressure . (5) cranking compression , is it making enough compression during starting . When and 806 is done wright they need NO EITHER SHE GO OR EITHER SHE BLOW . Either is the hardest thing on that engine as you can knock the top rings out of it and guess what she will start hard. A good 806 diesel will start way below 32 degrees with out either when all of the above are wright . My UGLY ratty old 806 with close to 10000 Hrs will start good down to freezing with put either and below that that is what the block heater is for . I have had old UGLY for 24 years and she was a hard starter when i got it a starter rebuild and new batterys solved 90 % a total rebuild will fix the rest when it needs it . And OH yea when was the last time the valves were run. ???

That's fine , don't break your arm patting your self on the back. I started farming with mine in 1984 and I would put mine up aside yours any day. Not everyone needs to listen to someone come on here and blow hard. I was merely trying to help. And by the way I only use either on the rare occasion that it can't be avoided.

Well i have WORKED on them longer then you have OWNED one and one thing you will never find around here is a can of either . I have seen first hand what it can do . So when you can fix repair and have the knowledge that myself pete and Owen have on I H tractors don't tell me i am a blow hard . If you don't like it then don't ask . If you don't like FREE advice then don't ask and go to your friendly dealer and have him fix it . as far as putting your up against mine i really don't think you want to go there.