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Farmall H stuck in gear and drip hole filler leak

J

John Thames

New User
Trying to restore 1944 H and to the point of cranking for first time in over a year. Think I might have messed up while working on brakes as I turned the brake shaft a couple if spins before attaching brake pedals. Does this shaft attach to drive? Also, put new gas in & drained old out of carb( stinks!) turned on gas at bowl and a river flowed from drip hole filler.
Any help would be very much aprieciated! Thanks, Johnny in Alabama
 
OK let's take this one step at a time. In your post title you say 'Farmall H stuck in gear'. Not sure why you are saying that. You don't refer to it in your post. Could it be your engine is stuck? You ask if the brake shaft is connected to the drive. What do you mean? All I can say here is that the drum that the brake band is around is directly geared to the wheel on the same side as the brake. You should not be able to move the drum much unless the wheel is allowed to turn. As far as the gas situation goes, there should not be any gas leaking from anywhere when you turn the shutoff to the on position. If it is flowing out of the carb, my guess is the float is not moving and the needle valve can't shut off the flow of gas to the carb bowl. A carb cleaning would be in order. Not sure if that helps at all. Your post is not very clear to me as to what your problems are.
 
Right you are! Terrible post. What is happening is before I put the brake bands back on the drums, while the transmission was in neutral, I could spin the wheel. When I put everything back on ( bands, cover, petals, etc) I put the rim/ tires back on then tried to move tractor. Now even though I'm out if gear, the transmission is in gear.
 
Brake adjustment on an 'H' is not quite like that. Here's my procedure I finally figured out.

To Adjust / Tighten Up Brakes;
[To Move Brake Pedals Closer to Transmission Cover; ]
 Un-do bottom locknut on bottom of brake drum housing.
 Then re-adjust bottom square-head bolt up firmly, then down ~ ½ / ~ ¾ turn.
 Tighten the bottom locknut BUT NOT TOO TIGHT, you may rip it out.
 Remove cotter pins.
 Un-do the rear portion of the springs.
 Remove the clevis pins.
 Thread IN the clevis to tighten up the brakes. [1 full turn moves brake pedal ~ 1/8” closer to transmission cover.]
 Reassemble.
 Do each side evenly, so tractor brakes evenly left/fright.
 
With all wheels on the ground, press the clutch all the way. If you can move the tractor with the clutch released, it is not the transmission, but more than likely the engine is stuck. If the tractor will not move with the clutch released there is indeed a problem with the transmission.
 
Thanks for info Bill. The tractor started today! Ran for a few minutes. I have to push clutch in as far as it will extend as it tries to move. When I try to start tractor. This hallens with shifter in neutral position. But what a great sound after being on blocks for a year &1/2!
 
Thanks for all's input! I'm happy to announce that my H is up and running! The float was stuck and as for the gears, have no clue but I put the clutch in and hit the brakes hard and for some reason everything came back to normal. All gears engage and neutral works! Thanks again, Johnny
 
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