Repair costs

BigTone

Member
Hey folks, I was just wondering if anyone could give me a general idea on what it costs for a engine rebuild, clutch, and TA on a 1066 and/or 1466. I've come into a 1066 4x4 and a 1466. They are part of my wife's inheritance from her fathers estate and I'd like to refresh both of them but I'm just not sure what the individual costs are as well as what should be done at the same time. I figured the ta and clutch should be done together and the engine separately. I understand im looking at thousands but I'm just looking for a general idea on how many thousands, the work will probably be done at the local CaseIH dealer. Thanks for the help, ~Anthony
 
If you can....avoid the dealer. Find a local or retired guy with less overhead and more knowledge. You can do a lot of it yourself n=but, find out what they truly NEED first. I would expect a "dealer" to be around $5000 for each tractor.
 
You might get by just cleaning them up good. I would expect several thousand each to marginally go through them.

People talk about restoration, but a true restoration can be in the 10s of thousands. It involves complete dis-assembly, checking of parts for tolerances and reassembly.

I would be careful of a dealer, or someone that thinks they know how to work on them. There should be many people here knowledgeable.
 
I've done 2 ta's recently this is what I do-buy the kit from hy-cap it includes most all you need mcv pump,gaskets,I-pto drive, O-rings and other items.Do the clutch,pressure plate and have the flywheel cut and hopefully it hasn't been cut too many times.It will cost you about $1800 or so there are always unforseen costs along the way.I charge about $1500 labour.If you can find someone to overhaul the engine for $5000 you would be lucky.Figure machine shop work for the head,rebushing and resizing rods and then the o/h kit plus labour.If you really want everything done right I would figure closer to $10000.I do realize parts are more money here but not much.
 
in the neighborhood of 15,000.
ph. and get an estimate from them and see how close we are.
 
Ya sure your getting enough money for a T/A job ?? If it does not have a cab in and out the door labor is 750 my price , cabs a bit more . Prices have gone up over the years use to do them for 450 . As for and engine here this depends on how many hours it has as to the cost . Inframe or out of frame . I like out of frame and even with machine shop work around three grand .
 
Well i THINK i am one of the ones that know them. And know them well enough that when i go to the tool box i know what i need on the first trip .
 
How do you know the Engine,clutch,TA is bad? can
you run them?Those two are two of the best later IH
tractors out there.
 
They were used on the farm until more equipment was bought. The 1066 4x4 clutch is slipping because oil is dripping on it from the motor and the 1466 has a weak motor (from what I'm told) and has a hydraulic leak (i'll find that when it gets warmer out). I don't know what they need for sure, i'm just going on what her family has told me, I figured if the clutch has oil on it its going to need to be replaced and who knows why the oil is leaking. The hydraulic leak (near the rear end) is steady on the 1466, It's a loader tractor and not plowing anymore so I'm not concerned about the engine but have been told everything runs through the hydraulic pump so that needs to be addressed. As far as t/a's, I figured if the tractor was split I might as well do both ta and clutch together.
 
Unless the TA is bad I would just leave it.That is a lot of work. 2 splits, and the oil leak on the clutch is probably the rear main seal if it is black oil if not then the front main on trans.
I would look at the ring and pinion gears if I got that far as they are more likely to go bad by this time if it has run enough to have the seals leaking. After all it is 35years old about. If you decide to do the rear end gears with all bearings that is 5,000.00 alone with no labor. Dad did his 1466 a couple of years ago. We put new ring and pinion in with all new bearings in the range trans with a gear or 2 axle bearings. From the clutch back it has been more or less restored just no paint.
 
Having the work done by the dealer i would bet you will get ten grand in it . if you have the engine and clutch and T/A done . I know of one guy that had his 806 done at the local dealer ten years ago that had all that done and he had over 9 grand in it . I did a 1066 for a guy one time that just had to have a 1066 and came to me for a tractor , at the time he was looking i did not have a 1066 setting but was going to a couple sales and if he wanted a GOOD 1066 i would find him one that he could take to the field for 85-8700 bucks . Told me that was way to high. Ok fine and left it at that . A couple months later they come back and want me to do a clutch and T/A job for them on a 1066 they got at a sale close by . Yep i can do that and it will cost you this much IF i do not find anything else that NEEDS replacing . When the tractor arrived at the shop i about fell over , i knew the tractor years back that 1066 was hit and broke into three pieces by a semi coal bucket . I had even went and looked at it after it was hit to see if maybe i could buy it and fix it . It sat for years and some one pieced it somewhat back together with what ever junk they could find . The dash support was broken and they used flat strap and 1/4 inch bolts to put it back together . Then it was sent to a consignment sale and they bought it for 5200 I asked them if they wanted to replace the broken stuffand they said yes ok fine. When i pulled the center section out of that tractor each and every bolt BROKE off and had to be drilled out and removed I mean every bolt . I could see i was loosen my rear on this job .When i opened up the speed transmission every gear and both shafts and all bearings were junk . I stopped wright there and called them to come down and take a look and let me know what they wanted to do NOW . This 1066 was the never ending job and went from a bid job to a by the hour and by the piece . When it left the shop there were few bolts that were left untouched from the ft. of that tractor to the rear . When it did leave it was totally rebuilt repainted and retired and the total bill ever at my rate was close to 19000 grand . The only thing they said was We should have just let you find a good one that would have went to the field would have saved us some money . Sometimes ya just have to know when to take your licking pay tuition to the school of hard knocks and move on to the next learning experience , Yea i have paid into it more then once . I also have fixed many such bad deals for people and tried my best to keep there tuition payments down as low as i could for them.
 
I'm with ya, I have been to the school of hard knocks on everything, snowmobile, ATV, my first truck, my "Free" M, and now a free 1066 and 1466. I do have a guy that has a shop and buys 10's and 14's from all over the country, refreshes them and then sells them and I'm sure he would do the work for less than the dealer with the same knowledge base or maybe even a little more. I wanted the CaseIH prices just as a worst case idea. I have zero intention of putting $19,000 into these tractors. Maybe $10,000 into one over the course of a few years, the 4x4 would be cool to have because no one around here has them but the 1466 is the one I want to refresh first, it has a cab (ac/heat/radio) and loader, great tires, with a rebuilt starter it would start just fine and like I said, i'm not plowing with it so a weaker motor isn't going to effect anything as a chore/loader tractor I don't think. The 4x4 would be cool but if there are trans seals or rear end seals going which could lead to bearing issues and rear end work it's probably not worth it, maybe i'll sell it to finance the 1466.

Do I need to crack this tractor open to find the problems or can I diagnose these leaks from the outside by finding where the leak is coming from? For instance, is there a way to look at the clutch to see where the oil is coming from? This is my first big tractor, far cry from the M !! ~Anthony
 
You said the clutch was slipping because it had oil on it, right?

You're going to have to crack the tractor open to fix that regardless. There is no choice in the matter if you want the problem fixed.

When you get it open you will be able to tell where the problem is easily. Again, you have no choice in the matter if you want to fix the problem of the slipping clutch.

The only other option is to sell it as is and take whatever you can get.
 
I wouldn't open the shop doors for $750 there is to much time wasted cleaning,checking and reshimming.For that kind of money I could work for someone else.Time you figure your heat,electric and insurance there is nothing left.
 
I am sure bubby will do better than Salem but if having 2 66
series tractors is to much for you you could donate one over
here in vermont
Good luck dan
 
Yeah Dan, bubby could do better than Salem and he'd be the first call i'd make, he lives just up the road from me, two farms over actually. Actually, he probably has all of the parts needed to fix it right there on his farm!
 
Hi I just did an in frame on a 466 in a truck for a guy. Had the head gone through/ new rod bushings. all the parts and my time that was $5000 less some small change.
I would think 7500 -$8500 on a bad day for total rebuild with crank work and new oil pump and stuff if I did it here. Actually a full re build would be easier than an in frame by the time a guys done with it I think.
Regards Robert
 
You can always save yourself a bundle by breaking it down yourself. Taking an engine in on its own, replace TA and clutch yourself, etc... if you are mechanically inclined. The stuff is heavy, but it's certainly not rocket science. But I've always done most things on my own, so it's what your comfort level (monetary as well as physical/knowledge based). Getting a thousand dollars in my pocket take a while, so everything I do myself is money in my pocket. But I don't earn most of my bread from farming... so there's that too.
 

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