1486 range stuck

idahofarmer

New User
hey guys, got a 1486 last year and have been running it on my 21 ft disk lately, had it on the drill today pullin, went to shift to neutral and it hadnt shifted out of gear.
i was going in high 1 at about half throttle, its only a 14 ft drill so i wasnt pulling hard.
the shifting is usually smooth although it does have its moments.
Is this a problem with the shifting detents?
where should i be looking for problems?

also the lever is now in the neutral position but will not allow me to go back to the high/low side, lever does move to park and reverse though. it is still in high range.

thanks in advance!
Orrin, T.F. idaho
 
pull up the floor mat and remove the rectangular plate of steel so you can get at the top of the trans. the range trans is back under the seat so you got to kinda reach back there with something, but there are 2 shafts w/ arms on the top. if you wiggle the range lever, you'll see which two it tries to move. what you need to do is put the lever in neutral but over toward rev/park, then reach back there to the high/low shaft and put it manually in neutral. then you're all set.

it helps to make sure you're completely stopped before taking it out of gear and make sure you shift fore/back to neutral, side to side as necessary, then fore/back to what you want, instead of doing more of a U shaped motion.
 
thanks! tractors pretty new to me so dont quite know my way around it like the others. is there any linkage that may need tighted up to prevent this from happening again? other than being more careful when shifting
 
(quoted from post at 15:22:07 03/14/14) thanks! tractors pretty new to me so dont quite know my way around it like the others. is there any linkage that may need tighted up to prevent this from happening again? other than being more careful when shifting

The bar on the high low shaft can loosen and cause this problem.

The original design used a very small flat washer which would not keep the bar tight. That has been replaced by a heavier, hardened flat washer CIH p/n 87613287. 1" OD by .098" thick. ($1.90)

Avoid using too thick of a washer due to low clearance between the bolt and the speed transmission shift rod.

While you're working in this area, give all pivot points in the shifting mechanism a good lubrication.
 
We have had similar issues with our 1486. Usually if it is coming out of gear hard pull back the t/a and it will shift easily.
 
You're working ground around Twin Falls? I'm jealous. If you know what you're doing you can reach up under the cab with the right length screwdriver or pry bar and move the linkage. Might be easier to pull the cab floor. The bolts holding the floor plate are probably large Phillips. A hammer impact screw driver might help you get them loose if they haven't been touched for awhile.

A rear wheel rim on my 1086 split on the inside and it shot cal chlor tire fluid up under the cab. A month later It was shifting into two gears at one time and just really messing up. Had to pull the floor plate and spend a day standing on my head removing, cleaning and lubricating every single moving linkage under there because of the rust from the fluid. It has cast iron weights now! Jim
 
(quoted from post at 02:29:18 03/17/14) We have had similar issues with our 1486. Usually if it is coming out of gear hard pull back the t/a and it will shift easily.

That's not a similar issue.

Your dump valve is not adjusted properly.
 
When you are letting out on the clutch the dash light should go out right before the clutch engages. If not the dump valve does indeed need to be adjusted. Your book should mention that. Jim
 

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