826 Park Lock

I recently purchased an 826 that needs some love. It runs like a top, but I cannot get the Park Lock to disengage. Do you need to rock the tractor? Or just keep spraying lube on it? Any help would be appreciated! Thanks and God Bless!

What exactly is the problem? Lever won't move? Lever moves, but lock won't disengage?

Lubing is a waste of time because you can't get at most of the park lock mechanism without removing the deck and range transmission cover. The external linkages are usually worn beyond where lube will have any effect.

If you really think the lever is set up, you can simply detach the linkage from the lever or the plunger where it goes into the transmission, and work the lever to see if the problem is there.

Odds are it's jammed it up from not being COMPLETELY stopped when it was engaged, or by having the tractor in a range gear, or by shoving the lever down.

If you know this already, skip the following obligatory lecture:

It's a park LOCK, not a brake. It's a latch (aka pawl) that engages the reverse idler gear and prevents the transmission from turning. The tractor has to be 100% stopped, and the range transmission has to be in neutral when you engage the park lock. To engage the park lock you DROP the lever. Do not push or step on the lever to force it down. If it does not completely engage, feather the brakes so the tractor rolls a little until the pawl lines up with a gear tooth. Or, if the tractor won't roll, get up and step on a tire lug. Your weight will shift the tractor enough to make the pawl drop.

There are shields on the range linkage that are supposed to prevent the park lock from being engaged when the tractor is not in neutral, but if the linkages are worn, you can slip the tractor into park while it is still in gear.

I learned real quick at a young age to MAKE %$#@ SURE the tractor is in neutral before dropping the park lever.

Dad was not happy the first time, and even less so the second time. Suffice it to say, there was NOT a third time. I would've needed skin grafts on my butt, for sure...

Thanks for the reply! I have chased the problem down to the actual
plunger going down through the deck. It moves up and down
approximately an inch. According the previous owner, he saw some
fluid leaking from the front of the tractor, stopped, turned the
motor off and applied the lock. Whether this is completely accurate
or not, it's what I am going off of. I would really rather not take the
lid off.

So any suggestions for a one man job to release the lock? Or do I
need two gorillas and a boy scout for this job? Thanks again!

If it (the plunger) moves but it stays in 'park',then ya gotta pull the cover.It's come apart inside.No big deal.Once the deck is off,unhook shifter rods,remove about 6 bolts and lift off.It may be 'stuck',but only weighs about 10 lbs.The plunger and pawl are attached to the cover.as well as the shifter cam.

Well i can do it by myself but i lot count a long time ago on how many range covers i have had off . Not only do you have to pull the top cover but also the side cover on the left side behind the step , there is a shift rod that goes down to the rev. shifting fork and when you pull the cover the rev. shift rod comes up and rev. shift fork falls over . also i do not know IF your park loc. has been updated or not . If it is the old style it is and over center deal and not much of a hassle , but if it has been changed to the new Spring loaded park loc then it is a big deal . Then you have to block the park loc up in the disengaged position with a 1/2 inch nut to hold it UP and one must be careful or it will EAT YOU . You say that the park loc will not come off ?? if this has been changed to the new style and moving the handle does nothing the pin on the rod may have sherd and let the fun begin . The way to tell if you have the old verses new , OLd style has and adjustable rod from the lever to the linkage on the up and down rod . New style spring loaded does not and just a solid rod with two 90 degree bends . When you remove the side cover to get to the rev. shift fork IF the hyd level is at the correct level and NOT FIVE OVER you will loose about a gallon of hyd. oil when you pull the cover If it is over full then you can loose six or more . For a first timer it is nice to have one extra pair of hands.

Thanks for the reply! I will pull that side cover off and see what"s going on. Is there a way to free the park lock without removing the deck cover? Can I pull it free using the lever or maybe prying it up?

No.Pull the cover.It is not a hard/difficult job.

All you will see is Rev sliding gear and shift fork under that cover . The deck and shift cover must come off Three springs to unhook clutch safty switch a hand full of 3/8ths bolts on the deck and some shift linkage and park loc linkage on the shift cover . Tools needed for the job 3/4 socket short extension ratchet 9/16ths socket and extension and ratchet a pair of side cutters one still bladed putty knife SHARP and a hammer . Now if said tractor has side hyd. couplers on the dash support them you will need a couple bigger wrenches . a use the putty knife to drive under the shift cover in the corners to break the gskt. and a couple small pry bars . Like i said before IF it has the spring loaded park lock ya need a 1/2 inch nut to place under the park loc to hold the rod up . Also make sure the shift linkage is in Neutral . Once you have it all off NOW is a good time to check all the stuff on the bottom side of the shift cover . Best to get a I T manual .