snow plow pictures for International 300 utility

I would like to mount a snow plow on the front of my International 300 utility. Since I will be making the snow plow mount from scratch , Maybe someone could share some photo's of how they mounted their snow plow to their tractor . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

No photo but clear advice:
Run push frame under the tractor to brackets on each rear axle 2"X4" rectangular tube. To keep the plow straight use a bracket on the front bolster that guides a vertical piece of that same tube (only this time it is side ways so it is strong left and right.) a front cross member can be used to allow a meyers or other plow to be mounted and the lift hydraulic cylinder is attached from that front bolster bracket to the cross member. A 12" stroke cylinder with a chain lift type of connection prevents damage to the cylinder if the plow runs up over anything. The plow can only lift till it touches the under side of the axles, but it is reasonable and easy to make. Ours of similar design was on our 350 U and was great. Jim

Simple , piece of cake . Ya don't need 2/4 box your working with a small tractor and 4 inch channel will work just fine for the main frame and ya don't need to go all the way back to the rear axles just to the bell housing . Make brackets up to mount to the steering bolster and to the bellhousing allow enough room for ft. axle movement from stop to stop . Find and old Western 7-7.6 snow plow and use what ever ya can . shorten up the A frame on the plow about six inches and do some re figuring and change the angle cylinder mounts a bit and it is a done deal. The reason is recommended the Western plow is that they do a lot better job on gravel drives then a Myers . What ya need for steel is some 1/4 inch plate some four inch channel some 2 1/2 2 1/2 x1/4 angle some bolt nuts a gas ax and some Lincoln ready bolt Optional equipment is a drill press and a metal cutting saw. Years back i put together a snow plow for my S/H this way from start to out the door pushing snow in four and a half hours . Now when i first did this i thought that IF i hqang my pulling weight brackets on the S/H and hang all the iron that i could on her it would be more then enough , well with five sets of Donuts on the wheels and 1200 lbs of suit case weights on the draw bar and another 1200 lbs on the belly bar it was not enough to keep it from spinning out or getting STUCK. BUT when i added CHAINS to the back tires and removed the belly bar i went from a helpless worthless time wasted effort to now i have a D 9 . It was great for straight ahead snow pushen but still sorta sucked for angle plowing as the ft. was still to light for more then a couple passes angled as it would slide off the windrow. BUT it would push straight ahead . With the skid shoes set at about 3/4 of and inch off the ground the western plow would NOT dig up gravel with a Myers plow if you set it at three inches off the ground you would still shove all the gravel out .

I would be happy too, give me a day or two

pics of mounting system

hope they load

I disagree with the Tractor Vet in using smaller main shafts. The use of lesser material on the shafts determines the foundation of the control of the blade. Channel or angle will buckle and be beyond salvage if even modest frozen in material is hit. Going to the back also lets the plow stay at a better push angle on the ground. the tractor is frameless, and though strong, pushing from the rear axle, and lifting from the front is safe. I own one of these tractors 350U and have pushed snow with it for years. It isn't broken. Jim

I agree with Janicholson on material and running the frame to the rear axle. Tractor Vet's idea is probably OK if you are looking to build something for small jobs like a short driveway, an open parking lot, etc. I don't believe it would hold up over time, especially where objects hidden by the snow could be run into.

Let me throw in a couple here. Up on the folks farm I snow plowed MANY times with a 300U. IF you put wheel weights, water in the tires, and a 55gallon drum of concret on the back it is JUST getting there. You must have GOOD brakes that serviced and after all of this you can hold the tractor on the lane touchin the right or left brake as you need. These tractors will slew from side to side if you have a regular size blade on the front. My dad bought the real deal from the IH dealer and mostly it was fine but if the snow is heavy or wind blown or real slop it is very hard to keep her on the straight and narrow. NOw you need a full canvas cab! Jeffcat

I have a 300 utility myself have plowed snow going forwards with it since 2006. I made a frame under it with channel bolted to the front bolster and to the clutch housing. Started with a 6.5' western and pushed it for 2 yrs found a 7.5' and have no problem pushing it. My tires are loaded and I do have a 500# block of steel to hang on bsck. I only use the steel block occasionally when its real icy. I also put a set of ring chains on right after the first snow of each season