new GENERATOR and still no luck HELP!!!!!

I have an ih 460 that I had some recent issues with... I was driving down the road and lost power and battery was always dying!! after talking to some folks on here I had the generator rebuilt and I just installed it today. I started it up fine with no probloms and let it run for 30 mins. then I went to put my blade on and I was driving back with in 1st gear with the TA on and I let it out and went up a small incline of a hill and it died!!!!! I thought maybe I had a lose connection or bad wire but ive looked over everything and all seems to be goo I even tried replacing the wire from GEN to the volt regulator with no luck. before I installed the GEN my battery was saying 12.1 on the meter and after idoling it was saying about 13.8 so I know the GEN is good.......any ideas?????

Sounds like either a spark of fuel problem. I would check spark at all 4 plug wires and make sure it is a good Blue/white in color and jumps a 1/4 inch gap or more. Next I would pull the carb drain plug and let the fuel flow for a few minutes. Catch that gas to look for water/dirt etc. A tractor does not need a charging system for it to run if the battery has a full charge. Matter of fact you can run a tractor with out a charging system for hours on just a good battery BTDT many times over the year

ya ill try draining the fuel a little bit but I know my glass bowl fuel is pretty clean.....well a little pieces of rust but not as bad before I got it. and ill also try the plug wires real quick and let you know........thank you

Sediment bowl can be full and all and clean but you can still have something in the tank that mores around and covers the fuel hole and cause problems. Had that happen on my BA which is half B and half A so a BA but it had a leaf in the tank that would float over the sediment bowl and cover it and stop the engine dead in its tracts then wait a minute or 2 an the leaf would float off and you where good to go til it happened again

If the fuel seems OK, the key might be failing on the run position. If so it can die at any time, when it will not start, or quits, make sure there is voltage at the coil input side with the key on.
Jim

so I took the fuel bowl off just incase and re filled it and on the carb I took the screw on right side of the bowl and pulled it out and let it run a stream steady for about thirty seconds or so. still no luck really getting aggervated with this tractor.... I checked the plugs and no fire that I could see I tried attaching a pic of the plug but seems to be ok plus there not even 3 months old plugs

I will try this as well thanks you.....I need all the help I can get with this

with the key turned on im getting abywhere betweem 3-5 volts to the coil, and 0 with the key off. there are some terminals right next to the coil as well and there I was getting mid 7s when key was turned on?

If you got no fire at the plugs, you can fiddle with the generator and the fuel line until you die of old age, and it's not going to fix the problem.

You've got an ignition problem. Bad wire to the coil, bad coil, bad points, bad condensor, bad distributor cap... could be any of that.

Try jumping the coil directly from the + terminal on the battery, and se if you have spark then.

ok I can try that but this winter I installed 6 new plugs and all new plug wires and rebuilt all the points and distributor and all have worked fine before....thanks

30 seconds is not long enough.That barely drains the float bowl.It neesd a MINIMUM of 2-3 minutes.5 minutes is better.The flow should remain constant after the bowl is drained.Catch the gas in a bucket

ya I can see that but I do not think that is the problem.. im not getting any spark come to find out I took a new wire from + of battery to the + of the coil and still now spark in the plug..... any one, could this mean I have a bad coil....very possible seeing as how I have a 1959 460 and it is the original.....but would this just stop the tractor instantly? I guess it could ? are there any other things I could do to prove this?

That is an issue. The coil input should be 7volts if it has a ballast resistor. It should have 12.5 or so if no resistor. There is bad switch or bad wires (could even be the connection to the ignition switch. Jim

that is a problem? do you think it could be a bad coil? when you say restrictor, my positive comes off to a small rectangular block that only has a positive and negative..... then goes to all the panels by the wheel. when I took a wire to positive on the battery and positive on the coil I had no spark still. also if it were a bad coil or igtintion would it just shut off like that

Coil doesnt need to be old to fail.one year replacement coil on my '70 Ford pickup failed,stranding me.When I got home,the old coil was put back on....Still threr after 10 years.Idont know of a good/accuret test of a coil.A condencer could also be at fault,these new condencers are junk. just replace the coil,see if that doesnt fix it.

A bad coil can instantly stop the tractor.The coil will get HOT and shut down.When the coil cools,it will resume working till it gets hot again.Eventially it will completely quit.The coil will develop an 'Open' when hot,stopping electrical flow.When it cools,the Open will close thus letting the tractor run again.When the tractor stops,IMMEDIATLY get off and touch/feel the coil.If it is HOT ,then it is bad.

The points could have slipped in adjustment, they could have developed a film of resistant material preventing their conduction. Make sure the point side of the coil (when tested with a ordinary test light) flashes when you try to start it. Ground one light lead and hook the other to the distributor small wire. Jim

to ALL,
THANK YOU SO MUCH
I am going to try and replace the coil and I will keep in touech as soon as I complete this to see if this works. or let it cool down and see if I can start it again

Bad coil not likely but dirty or corroded points very very likely. The ignition system has a number of components to it Your switch then the coil then the points and condenser and then the rotor and cap. The points have to conduct power or the whole system will NEVER work. So if you turn the distributor to the point that the points are open and then stick a screw driver between the points I bet you will see a spark. Most common reason for no spark is the points being bad

Points can go bad or get corroded just sitting over night if conditions are right. Another way to check points if you dare is turn the ignition on and with your hand carefully open and close the points by hand. You should both see and hear a spark from them if they are good. The reason I say carefully is if they are not working as they should and you get between them and ground you will jump 10 feet from the shock you will get. Or you can also do this. Run a wire from the ignition side of the battery to the coil. With the points closed touch that wire to the ignition side of the coil on and off and you should see a spark if the points are good and working

A very good tool for electrical troubleshooting.

One more thing: An auxilary ground is dirt cheap and can answer a multitude of puzzling questions. Earlier in this long winter, my 450 got to where is would die or just wouldn't start--it finally turned out that the distributor wasn't getting a good ground to the block and thus back to the battery. Just sayin'....Good luck! Hugh

ok so I replace the coil today with a brand new one and took out the old block seeing as how the new one has one built into it.... my ground from coil to distributor is now on the mounting bracket and my other runs back to gauges...sound right? the one from distributor to the mounting bracket is pretty chewed up so ill try that maybe?

Yes, the main thing is that your distributor has to be well-grounded to the frame. On your 450, assuming it is still positive-ground, it means that you could eliminate all potential variables by running, at least temporarily, a ground from the distributor body to the frame or even to the positive post of the battery (again, assuming it is still wired positive-ground). The wire coming in with voltage for the coil will go to one side of the coil, and from that side to the other side, onto the post on the side of your distributor. And then, your ground wire, whether temporary or permanent, is a separate, different wire, from the distributor body to the frame (or positive post of the battery). I don't think it makes any difference whether the coil is grounded or not, I could be wrong. But if it is positive ground, you run your hot wire from the switch to the negative terminal of your coil, and from the positive terminal of your coil to the post on the side of the distributor. Note: if you are running a modern negative ground, the only difference is that you will run your hot wire from the switch to the positive post on the coil, and then from the negative terminal on your coil, to the post on the side of the distributor. As for you ground from the distributor body, here too, you would run your ground not to the positive, but to the negative terminal of the battery...why? Because if you have converted the tractor to negative ground, then to ground anything, including the distributor body, you must run it to the negative terminal on your battery. In any case, just make sure your distributor body has a good ground, because the distributor cannot do its job if the voltage coming into it can't get back to ground. My email is open, let me know if I can confuse you some more! Hugh

I hooked it the same exct way I took it off beside the block that has a positive and negative. however I tried re grounding my coil and starting it today an wires on the ignition were starting to smoke I am not an expert but do not think this is good. if it were a positive ground will I mess it up if wired backwards....and im not changing the polarity by jumping wires from BAT to GEN I think that is why I messed my GEN up in the first place

Maybe there is somebody that lives nearby who could come and take a look at it firsthand? That is probably the best approach, somebody that could apply their expertise in a hands-on approach. Some things just get lost in the translation, when the problem is not solved after this many tries, that is what is probably the way to go. Good luck, Hugh

(quoted from post at 16:25:56 03/12/14) I hooked it the same exct way I took it off beside the block that has a positive and negative. however I tried re grounding my coil and starting it today an wires on the ignition were starting to smoke I am not an expert but do not think this is good. if it were a positive ground will I mess it up if wired backwards....and im not changing the polarity by jumping wires from BAT to GEN I think that is why I messed my GEN up in the first place

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Coils do not have a ground.

Coils have three connections:
1. Ignition to one small post.
2. Other small post to side of distributor.
3. Large spark wire to distributor cap.

What you did, was create a short circuit. That is why your wires started to smoke.