Farmall A stuck

Anonymous-0 · Feb 12, 2014

I have soaked our A with PB blaster for about 10 days and have been unable to get it to budge. The past two day it has been soaking in free all. If I cant get it free I would like to find a SA or a 100 block so I would have hydro Question is will everything else work with the newer block. Everything I have read suggests that it will. Before I go through the trouble of finding a block I want to make sure everything will go back together. Thanks

CNKS · Feb 12, 2014

You will have the hole for the pump, but the tube between the engine and rear is does not have the flat place and is not drilled for the reservoir. You also need the touch control levers, etc. Your A has wet sleeves. I have never tried it but it seems that the sleeves and pistons will easily come out by tapping the bottom of the sleeve as opposed to rust between the sleeve and bore with dry sleeves.

old · Feb 12, 2014

PB blaster is a joke. I use ATF and have freed up many engines with ATF. Of course if it is locked up due to water in the cylinder and it sat that way very long only way it is going to free up is to take it apart

ken house · Feb 12, 2014

did not understand how long engine has been stuck. i have unstuck 1. take the spark plugs out. use compressed air and blow as much as you can from the cylinders. do this a couple of times over a couple of days. oil floats on water, so water has to come out before penetrant can work. remove starter. after soak for a few days, stick big screwdriver into starter hole and prize both ways, try to rock the engine. if still stuck. remove oil pan place jack under rod journal, place block of wood on top of jack, and raise the tractor, clear the front wheels. at this point, i placed a screwdriver in the starter hole and prized and it came loose.

gene bender · Feb 12, 2014

When you had the plugs out did you look in to see the walls of the cycls if they are rusty all the snake oil will never get the engine unstuck thats the firsrt thing to do. Like other [post says you will need to change the torque tube for a place to bolt the hy unit. Yes the block can be changed also.

teddy52food · Feb 13, 2014

Rebuild what you have rather than looking for another block. Lots of parts available.

LMack · Feb 13, 2014

You are going to have a lot of issues trying to add hydraulics to an A (that is the reason no kit was offered by IH when the SA was introduced as they did for the C and SC to retrofit a two point hitch). The SA had added space under the gas tank to make room for the hydraulic reservoir and rock shaft. The front bolster, the radiator, and the tin were all taller and different. The front and rear tool bar mounts are completely different. If you want hydraulics you need to consider getting an SA with the hydraulics built in. It will be less expensive and you will keep the skin on your knuckles and retain your sanity and your finished unit will not look like a Frankintractor. If you are patient you will be able to find all the implements you need for an SA but not for a modified A. Otherwise you will have to modify every implement you try to mount. Truth is you would just about have to unbolt the A at the front of the transmission and bolt on the SA and even then the rear rock shaft would not be correct.

El Toro · Feb 14, 2014

I bought a Farmall A in 1975 that was stuck. I pulled the head and soaked the pistons with ATF. I took a piece of 2 x 2 oak and a big hammer and drove out the pistons. Two of the sleeves came out with the pistons. I used an acetylene torch to free the piston. The two sleeves that stayed in the block I drove them out too. I used the old rods with the new sleeve kit and pistons. Had the crankshaft polished and bought the new bearings from the auto machine shop. Had the clutch disc relined. The tractor came with the 16-inch moldboard plow for $100.00. I plowed my garden that Spring. Hal
PS: Some snow pictures from ne MD.

Farmall A stuck

Anonymous-0

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CNKS

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old

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ken house

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gene bender

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teddy52food

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LMack

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El Toro

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