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Bars leaks stop leak tablets

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Patrick HMD

Member
I recently replaced my water jacket cover. Even though I took precautionary measures during reassembly, I now have one minor leak at the bottom left hand corner. Leaks about 1/4 cup or less of coolant per 24 hr. period. Rather than tear it all down again, I'm thinking maybe some bars leak tablets would take care of the problem.

I was also thinking of smearing some silicon caulking or JB weld on the area. Not sure if those would hold up with the heat of the motor. Opinions on bars leaks products and other feedback would be appreciated. What say ye?

Best regards
Patrick
'49M
 
I use it. I use it when the access to the leak is dramatically difficult or requires major disassembly. On a water jacket cover, I would not.
If it is way cold where you are, and the tractor is needed in a way that provides safety and access to the family, I probably would use it. I have it in our Subaru because it is a requirement of the service manual. Jim
 
Plain old black pepper. Works great and won't build up in the cooling tubes obstructing flow. Works like a charm, easily available in any home, free at McDonalds and other fast food restaurants, doesn't require draining radiator to fill with water during the application, and stops leaks.
 
Patrick, I use Bar's leak with great success. However, I use the liquid with the pellets. However, you need to follow the directions carefully. It is rather simple, but before you put it into the rad, the tractor MUST be up to operating temperature and the coolant ciruclating. Then, after you put it in, work it a bit, at least for 30-40 mins. It is compatible with antifreeze, so no need to drain the cooling system. It is also good for water pumps, as it has a lubricant in it.

Others on the site are not so big on this, but, I need to be clear. if you don't have the tractor up to operating temp, you will have issues. If you follow the instructions on the bottle, you will be pleased with the results. Other's may disagree, but I like it and I use it.
 
So what are you going to spend on the Bars Leak vs
a new gasket? I dont like these stop leaks and the
pepper idea. Its been my experience they cause more
problems in the long run. Sure Ill catch flack for
that, but I believe in doing something right, not
some magic fix in a bottle.
 
I just had the same thing happen after a major overhaul. I used new cover and new gasket with permatex. It seeped in several places. I took it back apart cleaned it and used permatex grey only and let it cure for 24hrs.It is now sealed.
 
ya bars leak will fix it , & plug evey other thing up in that engine too ,unless you drain out the coolant to put that RTV or JB weld on there it wont work , so be just as easy to replace that gasket & copper coat it or RTV gasket this time
 
When you pull the cover to redo the gasket, be sure to check the cover for any rust holes. Your problem may not be at the gasket. It doesn't take a very big hole to make a big leak.
 
The non-hardning Permatex is a way better product that any of the silicones. But if you don't want to pull it back apart yes, use stop leak. I've been told that all new cars come from the factory with stop-leak installed. I prefer the aluminum powder type. Alumaseal. Wal-mart carries it
 
Thanks for the help guys. The gasket sealer that I used was the Permatex Indian Head. Guess I'll not use that again. The mating surface on the motor side was heavily pitted due to corrosion over the lase 64 years.

The new leak was not there before changing out the cover. The old leak that I was concerned about did seal up ok.

Best regards
Patrick
'49M
 
The pitted area in the photo would be an excellent place to use JB Weld. Clean the area first to remove any & all rust, mix it up & apply. File it down smooth when cured & re-install the cover. Check the bolt flanges in the cover to be sure they are not "dimpled" in from someone over tightening in the past. If so carefully bring back to straight & level using a pair of ball peen hammers on a sturdy flat surface such as an anvil or large vise.
 
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