Farmall 460 gas power

I did some wheeling and dealing this week and came home with a farmall 460 gas has wide front end it looks like at some point it was gonna be restored new harness looks like new gaskets which I was told fresh engine
It starts real easy even at 2 degrees this morning and it was -10 the day I went to check it out engine didn't even make a full revolution and it was running
No smoke don't burn any oil runs real smooth but when I took it for a ride around home the hill leading up here is pretty steep I had to use ta to make it up some of the hill my 460 utility diesel walks right up on the high side without much trouble my 560 diesel done not even act like there is a hill now my 560 has loaded 15.5x38 with 3 sets of wheel weights my 460 utility has loaded 14.9x28 with one set of weights and the 460 gas in question had 13.6x38 none loaded and no weights so it's pretty light compared to the other two
Is this right is the 460 gas got that much less power than the diesel? Or am I missing something?
Thanks dan

I"d check the timing 1st off. It"s likely not advanced enough.

A 460 gas is not a powerhouse, 221 ci, which is why they are easy on fuel. 5th high side is fast and it is heavy for a 221 cu in motor. I wouldn't worry about it until I did a little field work with it next spring.

Tractordanp; just thought you might try this >

Adjusting the carburetor

McCormick Farmall and International 460 – 560

per the Preventative Maintenance Manual dated 6-20-58

"The engine and carburetor are correctly set when shipped from the factory...Start the engine and allow it to operate until thoroughly warm before making any adjustments.

... with the engine thoroughly warm, turn off. Close the [top needle] idle adjusting screw to its seat; then open one turn. The [bottom adj. screw] main fuel adjusting screw can be used to reduce the amount of fuel going into the engine when under light load conditions. However, when heavy work is to be performed in which the FULL POWER of the engine IS REQUIRED, the fuel adjusting screw should be set five turns off its seat. With the engine running at fast idle, turn in the throttle stop screw a few turns to prevent the engine from stopping when the throttle is closed. Start engine, close the throttle by pushing the engine speed control lever all the way up. [I like the way they worded that.] The throttle stop screw can be backed out until the desired idle speed (approximately 425 r.p.m.) is obtained. If the engine misses or rolls, the idle adjusting screw may be adjusted either in or out until the engine operates smoothly.

Hope this helps.

I peeked at your snowblower video; did you get a stiff neck?

Ok thank you I will go give it a try
Not bad with blower only used for 15 mins or so I usually use
plow but blower came with the farmall 460 gas so I figured I
would give it a try while I had utility diesel fired up
Thanks dan

Well I adjusted as per what you posted main fuel screw was at
3 1/2 turns so it's out to 5 now seems better but I did find a
bigger power loss guy told me tires where not loaded and I
believed him to be correct being the bakes on tractor work
very well
Well any who I could not get valve stems to take air or check
pressure so I jacked tractor up to change valve stems and
guess what tires right full of calcium chloride
So I guess tractor is not to bad on power
I am very surprised how good the brakes work with loaded
tires I have half a mind to pull apart to see why and try to get
my other tractors to work as well but then again I don't wanna
mess it up lol
Thanks guy dan

"Tractordanp; Grab a mug of coffee and sit down...if you aren't in need of the full power as per the manual or when the weather warms up; another or...you have most likely run enough gas through it so what you have in the fuel system is fresh, I would turn that jet screw back in again to 3 1/2 or 4. It will save you fuel. Maybe you have already done this but; check the flow of gas at the sediment bowl by removing the screen above the bowl; checking condition of same. Remove the line where it enters the carburetor and peek at the end of same. There is or should be, a small in-line tubular screen-filter that you can remove (maybe some twisting action from a needle-nose pliers is needed) from the end of the line. It is quite possible your 1959-1963 model tractor has accumulated junk at this point. Also check for a good flow of fuel by turning out the carburetor bowl drain plug. Then it is off to the air cleaner assembly (my '63 Farmall was junkified); pre-cleaner, plugs, wires...I'm sure you know what to check. Concerning that no-flow air into your valve stems = corrosion, if it were me, I would replace the tubes, check the rims and add wheel weights. My 1955 Allis Chalmers CA all of a SUDDEN started leaking around the valve stem and it was costly! Last year I also had the rims on my International 460 (gas) sandblasted, primed and painted...there were corrosion spots that had made pin-holes in those rims as well. Oft' time the damage isn't seen until it gets severe. If you don't already have manuals, including parts, I highly recommend Mike Becker 'The Paper Farmer' a good Wisc. feller 715-762-1942 doing business the old-fashioned way; in person or answering a phone. Yup, others have their sources also. Would you please post back your findings; a new post would be good, so maybe others can learn also. Once in a while folks post that it would be nice to get responses to suggested help(s) for our and others learning...take the HINT! You are doing good so far! Thanks for posting, sharing photos, videos and good luck with your IH tractors.