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Engine Unlocking Tips

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FarmallGuy1923

Member
I have multiple engines that I am currently trying to unlock. I know there are a lot of different ways out their, so I was wondering if any of you have any specific ways that have helped you in the past. Thanks for all the tips.
 
Remove plugs and look in at the cycl walls and if they are rusty head needs to be removed and then go from there aint no mystery product that will remove rust from walls and rings would be rusted also so just look in they sparkpug hole quick and easy to do.
 
Most of the old tractors I have picked up over the years where locked up. Big thing is why they are locked up. If they have water in the cylinders then take them apart to free them up. If they locked up due to sitting a long time it can be as simple as filling the cylinders with ATF and pouring ATF down the exhaust and let them sit a few days/weeks or months. Then I set 1 volt battery in and use short fast taps of the starter with the plugs out and watch the crank pulley for movement. Out of over 20 only 1 or 2 did not free up
 
I have pulled the plugs out, and the cylinder wall looks fairly good. There is a small amount of rust, but it is a very small amount. I was hoping this would just mean soaking the pistons in something to get it unlocked.
 
ATF is as good as anything,after a few days of soaking smack each piston with a block of wood and a good sized hammer. Soak some more repeat. I like to use a pipe wrench on the lower crank shaft pulley to turn the motor. Most pulleys you can turn the wrench 90deg and hook the jaws in the center and outside of the pulley.
 
The products I use are Acetone (nail polish remover) and ATF @ 1/2-1/2. After leaving it in the cylinders for a few days, it helps to rock the tractor in road gear, just when you walk by it, say twice a day. This summer I got a Farmall H unstuck in about 10 days and a L 160 that had been stuck for many years, also in about 10 days.
Good luck!
 
So you have the head on or off?? If stil one Fill the cylinders wth ATF and put the plugs back in then pour as much ATF down the exhaust as it will hold with out leaking.
 
My SW6TA had been locked up for about 10-12 yrs so needless to say the entire engine was coming apart for a rebuild. However, to break the pistons loose I actually had to put a biga$$ socket on a piston that was between BDC and TDC and repeatedly drop a suitcase weight on it to rotate the crank. One piston actually came out with its sleeve. However that was an extreme case I do not suggest that, just wanted to share my nightmare story.
 

Before you do anything remove the oil drain plug and check for water. If water or antifreeze is showing then save yourself some grief and tear it down. If it doesn't show water then fill the cylinders with some solvent, oil and wait. If it turns you might luck out and get it running okay. Most of the time however the rings will also be frozen to the pistons and you will have to tear it down anyway. I have freed many a stuck engine by removing the head, sanding the cylinder walls, adding oil and smacking the piston top using a 10 lb sledge and a piece of oak block.
 
The important thing is, once you've determined that there's no water and the cylinders aren't badly rusted, is to try SOMETHING. Just pick a technique and do it. Don't waffle about which one. They all work, or don't work, depending on circumstances. Pretty much if one won't work, none of them will, so you've lost nothing by trying.
 
vibration!! engine release product money back guarantee states no guarantee unless some type of vibration I used atf/acetone though plug hole handyman jack on crank of F 20. set for 2 days then tapped crank with jack pressure slightly raising front wheels. 5 min of tapping vibration 2 different times and engine rotated.
 
I had a F20 block that was stuck bad. I tried soaking the pistons with just about everything. Finally, I sprayed some penetrating oil in each cylinder and light them on fire. The heat worked. I practically tapped the pistons out.
 
I HAD A 1970 MGB THAT HAD A STUCK MOTOR FOR 8 YEARS TRIED EVERYTHING. AN OLD MECHANIC GAVE ME A CAN OF KROIL PENETRATING SOLVENT, I CLEANED OUT THE CYLINDERS WITH COMPRESSED AIR SPRAYED THE KROIL IN LET IT SET FOR 3 DAYS BROKE LOOSE USING A 3/4 DRIVE RATCHET ON CRANKSHAFT DAMPER
 
Kroil is good stuff, but aint cheap! I had a buddy send me a can the other day. I keep it under lock and key since my wife tried to use it as WD40! Stinks to high heaven, but it will break an engine free. Another buddy had one of those big Titans and we freed up the engine after siting for 60 some odd years with it. Still needed work, but it did free it up faster and better than anything else we tried.
 
I would do what Curt suggested using kerosene. Make sure there's no flammable material in the area and away from any building. The sleeve may come out if the engine has sleeves, but that's no problem by using an acetylene torch to heat the sleeve. You probably need a new sleeve/piston kit
 
many lubricants are used. Bottom line is-its good for pistons to be soaking with something. one trick I heard about but never tried is if head is still on, take rocker arms off closing the valves, take spark plug out preferably out of the hole that is stuck if ya know which one it is and in an up position (can't do it on a bottom dead center piston), get a hydralic fitting that will screw into the plug hole, then simply hook it up to the hydraulics of another tractor, and use hydralic pressure to force it loose. (Important)when engine moves, take away the hydraulic pressure cause piston will end up at bottom dead center and there will be nowhere for the pressure to go. then something might break or blow up.
 
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