Farmall h governor

sony224422 · Jan 27, 2014

I cleaned my carb and checked my float and got it to stop leaking. I also replaced the spring in my governor. While in there I adjusted the carb to governor linkage that was pretty out of whack. I swapped engines from a bad one to a new one and the governor was swapped too. So the adjustments make sense. The adjustments made a big difference along with the carb cleaning but now my question is, when starting off in 5th gear it sounds like it's about to stall, but won't and will eventually pick up and go. Once going it seems ok until I start going up hill. It seems like it bogs down a lot and really works to try to keep going and I lose speed. I'm not sure how normal this is. The uphill is a slight incline but maybe 1/2 mile long. I also noticed sometimes it seems to surge while driving on flat ground but I can't predict when it will do it or if it will do it. Is this a governor issue or a carb issue? I think my carb is adjusted pretty well but I've also never heard a well running tractor. It seems to idle well, at a very slow speed and cleanly revs to full throttle with little black smoke. I also have electronic ignition.

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

Try opening the load screw on the carb one half turn at a time. it sounds like it is lean. If the engine does get to full RPM, the governor is probably not the issue. The mixture and Ignition timing are both critical to power loss.

sony224422 · Jan 27, 2014

(quoted from post at 10:47:00 01/27/14) Try opening the load screw on the carb one half turn at a time. it sounds like it is lean. If the engine does get to full RPM, the governor is probably not the issue. The mixture and Ignition timing are both critical to power loss.

I'm pretty sure I am timed correctly. What I did to time was rotate the engine to the first mark on the pulley and then I made sure the rotor was pointed to number 1 on the cap. It starts fairly easily, usually with one or 2 revolutions. The carb adjustment I'm not sure if I'm good on. I started at 1.5 for idle and 3 for main. I am going to try and fiddle some more. It's 3 turns out from it being finger tight correct?

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

Well the first mark in the rotation of the front pulley is the advance mark, not TDC. You need to find the real TDC (using a plastic straw in the #1 cylinder and moving the crank till it is topped out is easiest.) The second issue is whether the centrifugal advance is working. (does the rotor turn CW with a little twist, then spring back?, if not that may be a drastic issue)
The setting of the load needle is a function of power and the beginnings of tiny amounts of black smoke. Ethanol gasoline needs to be richer than the original starting point to run well. Assuming the timing issue is squared away. (believe in the need for this, it cna be badly damaged if operated out of time). It should have the points break open at TDC. Not just rotor pointing!!. Point gap is .020"
The needle should be opened until (when accellerating in 5th) a whisp of dark grey black smoke is seen. then closed until it is gone but the power is still there. Jim

sony224422 · Jan 27, 2014

I am going to retime mine tonight. What about me having electronic ignition?

sony224422 · Jan 27, 2014

Just put the engine to tdc on Mark and with a straw in the hole and looking with a flash light. Pulled my cap off.. 180 out of timing. I'm guessing that would be a problem haha. I am going to take it off and retime it. Hopefully that's my issue.

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

The trigger (points or Electronic switch) makes no difference. The advance is acomplished by a centrifugal device in the body of the distributor. It includes governor like weights and springs. These modify the location of the breaker shaft (or reluctor wheel mounted on it). the TDC issue is still valid. as is the need for RPM based total advance. Jim

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

That is easily accounted for by putting the plug wires in opposite holes (probably what you have.)
The true moment of ignition is the key. At cranking speed, the trigger should still be at TDC. Above that (even at low Idle) it will show advance. Jim

sony224422 · Jan 27, 2014

I put the distributor on and timed it once before. I realized the wires were on the cap wrong when I received the cap and wires ( not on this distributor) so I put them back to normal. I see now that someone might have changed them for the timing. I am going to have to retime since the wires are correct. All I should have to do is keep the engine at tdc and the take the distributor off and spin the shaft until the rotor points at 1 and put it back on correct?

David G · Jan 27, 2014

Just time it by ear, find location on timing for maximum RPM.

sony224422 · Jan 27, 2014

I think I am confused by timing.. I set tdc and took the distributor off turned the shaft until the rotor pointed to 1 and put it back on. Wouldn't start. So I took the cap off again and it was pointing 180 from 1 on tdc. Put it back how it was and it fired up.

Timing from ear might be what I have to do along with playing with carb settings.

It should be able to take off in 5th gear shouldn't it?

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

More or less. The trigger timing (Spark moment) must be specifically located within a degree or two. If the initial timing is wrong it will not be correct at any engine speed. See if you can get a copy of the timing instructions for the electronic unit. Jim

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

Most operators start in 4th and shift (using double clutching or mild grinding) into 5th on the fly. From 4th it will move reasonably to 16 to 18mph. From a dead stop, it is a lot of clutch burn. I do not do it from a stop.

rustyfarmall · Jan 27, 2014

The only time I MIGHT start off in 5th gear is if the tractor is already heading DOWN a hill that is steep enough to allow a little coasting when the brakes are released. Otherwise, always start in 4th.

Janicholson · Jan 27, 2014

Bingo. It is just too hard on the clutch. The fifth to input shaft splines are a wear item, but if not smashed into gear, they last 50 plus years. Jim

Allan in NE · Jan 27, 2014

They were never meant to start off in road gear and pulling hills just works the snot out of 'em.

Allan

D Slater · Jan 28, 2014

Jim unless the H pulley was changed or marked later there will only be double marks close together or one mark at TDC. With double marks the first to pointer on # 1 compression stroke turning crankshaft normal rotation is TDC. If the pulley also has a mark to locate the pilot grease fitting in the flywheel it will probably have the double marks to ID from the grease locater.

sony224422 · Jan 28, 2014

(quoted from post at 05:34:00 01/28/14) Jim unless the H pulley was changed or marked later there will only be double marks close together or one mark at TDC. With double marks the first to pointer on # 1 compression stroke turning crankshaft normal rotation is TDC. If the pulley also has a mark to locate the pilot grease fitting in the flywheel it will probably have the double marks to ID from the grease locater.

I'm confused as to why when I set tdc and pull the distributor and align it so the rotor is pointing at the number one wire and assemble it this way, after it runs and I set tdc the rotor is again pointing the way it is in the picture? Tractor starts and runs and is not back firing, I know an engine out of time will not run

Reggie Palmer · Jan 29, 2014

When checking the timing, and you have someone slowly hand crank the engine while you hold the #1 wire attached to a grounded spark plug. Should the plug fire exactly on the second mark of the front pulley?

Janicholson · Jan 29, 2014

I believe that is correct.
Several front pulleys had differing marks. I do not think any had marks after TDC. (no reason I can imagine) Jim

D Slater · Jan 29, 2014

(quoted from post at 10:39:50 01/29/14) When checking the timing, and you have someone slowly hand crank the engine while you hold the #1 wire attached to a grounded spark plug. Should the plug fire exactly on the second mark of the front pulley?

If the pulley has 2 close notches one is to identify the TDC notch from the notch to locate the flywheel pilot bearing grease fitting. First notch to pointer normal rotation is TDC. Other notch is about 5 degrees after TDC on a M. Never checked to see if its the same for a H.

sony224422 · Jan 30, 2014

(quoted from post at 19:51:43 01/29/14)

(quoted from post at 10:39:50 01/29/14) When checking the timing, and you have someone slowly hand crank the engine while you hold the #1 wire attached to a grounded spark plug. Should the plug fire exactly on the second mark of the front pulley?

Click to expand...

If the pulley has 2 close notches one is to identify the TDC notch from the notch to locate the flywheel pilot bearing grease fitting. First notch to pointer normal rotation is TDC. Other notch is about 5 degrees after TDC on a M. Never checked to see if its the same for a H.

Mine does have the 2 notches. It starts and runs it seems to be lacking a little power. I did purposely time it 180 out- it only back fired and would not even attempt to run. I will have to try to advance or retard the timing to see if it helps. I will also play with the load screw as it idles pretty well

Farmall h governor

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Similar threads