Case IH Temp Gauge

DanMD

Member
I just got a new temperature gauge for my SMD from the dealer. It says Clark Brothers on it and made in the USA. I put this new gauge in boiling water and it reads on the high side of U in RUN. Shouldn't boiling water put the needle to the lower edge of the HOT zone? Are these gauges easily adjustable by someone like myself?

Thanks,
Dan
 
Hi Dan, a simple explanation:
The boiling point of water varies with the
atmospheric pressure. Atmospheric pressure is
depended on how many feet above sea level you live
at and the barometric pressure. This is the reason
that all modern rads are pressurized to keep the
boiling point higher and more consistent.
So when the sensor part of the gauge is installed
in the MD which I believe would have a pressurized
rad cap the boiling point would be up in the RED
on the gauge.

I had to explain the same thing to a daughter that
moved to Salt Lake City, UT that is about 4200 ft
above sea level. She complained it took so much
longer to cook potatoes versus where she used to
live at 400 ft above sea level. In Salt Lake City
the water boils at a lower temperature therefore
since the temperature is lower it takes longer to
cook the potatoes.

Hope this explains the temp gauge reading.
JimB
 

I live at 962 ft. above sea level. Do you think that is enough to make the difference?

Thanks,
Dan
 
Hi Dan,
There is a chart at:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-
water-altitude-d_1344.html

At 1000 boiling point is 210.1F vs 212F at sea
level.
I am no expert on the MD but I believe it will
have a pressurized Rad Cap which will also
increase the boiling. Also if the coolant is a
50/50 antifreeze and water mix with a pressurized
rad cap of 15psi the boiling point will be over
250F. I don't think the MD would have a 15psi rad
cap. The older engines were 5 to 10 psi rad caps.
I am sure someone will state the MD's rad cap
pressure.

JimB
 
Your gage calibration sounds about right.

Since the SMD has a 15 psi pressurized cooling system, the coolant is not considered "hot" until it reaches boiling temperature at operating pressure - about 225 deg or so with straight water, or about 240 with 50:50 antifreeze.

So for your gage a reading near at the right side of the "U" is about what I would expect with the bulb immersed in boiling water. (Your 962 ft altitude pressure is not enough to make a significant difference....)

Unfortunately the gage is recalibrated/sealed at the factory - it cannot be field adjusted.
 
(quoted from post at 04:58:17 01/21/14) Hi Dan,
There is a chart at:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-
water-altitude-d_1344.html

At 1000 boiling point is 210.1F vs 212F at sea
level.
I am no expert on the MD but I believe it will
have a pressurized Rad Cap which will also
increase the boiling. Also if the coolant is a
50/50 antifreeze and water mix with a pressurized
rad cap of 15psi the boiling point will be over
250F. I don't think the MD would have a 15psi rad
cap. The older engines were 5 to 10 psi rad caps.
I am sure someone will state the MD's rad cap
pressure.

JimB

I believe it has a 4 psi cap.
 
Dan,you are 'overanalizeing' things.We are at over
5000 ft.Do a bit of work at over 8000.The 'factory'
gauges work just fine at this,yours,and just about
any altitude.Just install the gauge and dont
worry.If you are still worried,'shoot' it with one
of those infrared heat guns a few times during
operation to be sure.
 
I have never ever seen the gage get hot enough to worry about the top end of the range. If our MD got the needle to move it was working way to hard to keep moving. And yes the gage and all works fine. Just the radiators are so big and hold so much coolant. Like the rest of the IH line. H,MD,806,856,1466 none of them will move the needle much,even in the summer.
 

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