Farmall h won't start

'42 h rebuilt motor, refurbished head. Mag tune up. New plugs. New wiring. Re set timing. Properly gapped plugs and valves. Replaced condenser. Getting spark. Carb flooded. CArb fixed. Carb rebuild about 1 month old.

It was hard to start before rebuild. Would flood easy. I could have flooded it. Will let it sit tonight. Ideas about why no start?

Thanks
 
Try this:
Use a different battery to run the coil. Just leave the switch off, and jumper to ground and the coil (Switch terminal) and see if it starts. If so it is low voltge at the coil during cranking. Bigger battery cables (Ogauge) or better battery might be needed. Jim
 
What are you doing with the choke? Try pulling it half way out and as soon as it starts push it in. Where do you have the throttle. That should be open 1/4.
 
Will it start easily if pulled?
Is the mag impulse coupling working properly?? It should "snap" when cranking with the starter or hand crank. Check for a "fat, blue" spark.
 
Never mind. sorry about the mag identity failure on my part.
Next guess is to clean and warm the plugs. Use a propane torch to get them hot then reinstall them and give it a whirl. Jim
 
Have an AV with mag that would do the same thing. After trying everything I could think of, put a new coil in the mag. Now fires up instantly every time. Got trouble if the spark is not hot enough. Also have a Case SC that one day would not start. Had good spark, good fuel and air. Pulled my hair out trying to figure out the problem. Finally put in a new set of spark plugs and it fired right up. Old plugs would fire OK out of the engine, but once installed would not fire under compression. Go figure. Good luck, Allan.
 
My '49 H model with magneto and 12 volt is prone to flooding if it does not start immediately. You must have a good battery as well as other fresh electrical components. Remember your FACS--fuel, air, compression and spark.

My procedure to start:

1) turn on the fuel
1a) clamber onto tractor
2) transmission in neutral and set the brake if you are so inclined
3) magneto switched on
4) 1/2 trottle
5) ambient below 50° choke out full--if the ambient is 50° or higher I just try to start it without the choke--if it doesn't start, then I use the choke
6) clutch pedal pushed in, hand on the choke rod, and hit the starter button for no more than a couple of seconds, easing the choke in until it fires
7) if it fires, continue to ease the choke in, or out, until things smooth out
8) as soon as it starts to smooth out, be sure to keep an eye on the oil pressure gauge--it may take a couple of seconds but OP should build right away
9) if it does not fire, try again
10) if it floods, shut down and try again a little later
 
Remove No1 sparlplug near the radiator and bring No1 piston to tdc on the compression stroke. Remove cap on mag and see where your rotor is pointing. Should be at the No1 plug tower. If the timing is ok check the magnetism on your magnets inside your mag. Use a flatblade screwdriver. They should attract screwdriver with a lot of effort. They may be 50 to 60 years old. Hal
 
If still no joy, the magnet in the rotor might need to be remagnitized. To see if a hotter spark will do the trick, the points can be used to run an exterior 6v coil. The method includes disconnecting the internal lead to the points, but leaving the terminal connected to the points on the inside (normally attaches to the kill switch) attaching an external coil positive small terminal to that terminal instead of the kill switch. Connecting a wire from the battery to the negative small coil terminal (assumes the tractor is positive ground as it came from the factory, if not reverse the coil connections). connect a condenser to the coil positive terminal and ground it's body. (this replaces the internal condenser). A switch in the wire to the battery will allow you to dhut it off easily, or you can use an alligator clip as well to connect and disconnect the temporary ignition.
If it works you know you need to either get the magnet recharged, or replace the mag with a IH distributor. They are pretty cheap. Jim
Disconnect the mag high voltage wire and connect a coil wire (maybe that one but it is usually short) to the center of the mag cap.
This simply uses the rotor and cap and points to make a mag into a distributor.
 

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