2 Farmall H questions

Reinders · Jan 16, 2014

This is my first time working on an H and I am in the final stages of putting it back together. First, how much hydraulic fluid does the lift-all take? I can't find the amount in any of my manuals. Second, I replaced the brake bands and one feels good and the other real loose. I tightened the bolt on the bottom of the brake cover and it didn't seem to help. Any suggestions on how to tighten the band up? It would be the right brake. One last thing I just thought of. When I tightend the fan back on, it seems real tight. Is it supposed to be that tight? It doesn't spin freely is what I am trying to say. Again thanks for any help and attached is a picture of how far along the resotration is.

Zachary Hoyt · Jan 16, 2014

The brake adjustment to tighten it up is on the actuator, with the heavy spring. You unpin the clevis and turn it in or out as I recall. The water pump should spin freely when there is not a belt on the pulleys, with the belt in place you would be turning over the engine when you push on the fan so it will be stiff. 6 quarts in the liftall. There is supposed to be a dipstick in there but I have only found one out of about 10 Hs I have had.
Zach

Reinders · Jan 16, 2014

Here is a before picture back in September if you were interested.

Reinders · Jan 16, 2014

Thank you very much.

jasinpa · Jan 16, 2014

make sure you use 30w oil in that hyd. pump , hyd. oil wont work , also the dip stick was only used on the late model tractors like 50 & on , but will work in any years if you can find one , make sure that fill hole has the breather cap on it too, the screw under the brake cover is just to adjust brake so it dont drag the top side of band on drum nothing more

Zachary Hoyt · Jan 16, 2014

I used hytran for 3 years in my liftall with no problems, I used a loader and a remote cylinder on the haybine.
Zach

hoof print · Jan 16, 2014

Reinders, the others have answered your questions, but I feel like I have to say something about your cribbing. Please remove those cement blocks and replace them with wood. Cement blocks do not have the strength to support that weight. You'll probably get by fine with it, but I don't want to see you take the chance. I want you to live to enjoy that pretty tractor!

My bro-in-law was working on his 66 chevy pickup years ago, supported by cement blocks. One of the blocks broke and he was lucky to survive with a crushed leg.

David G · Jan 16, 2014

I would concur with hoof on the blocks.

Many people have been killed putting steel on blocks. A sharp edge or shock will shatter the block. I use a hybrid solution and put wood between the blocks and have them right side up.

pete 23 · Jan 16, 2014

On the water pump. Was it repaired. If it was the new felt behind the pulley will drag pretty heavy until run a few minutes. If it was not repaired, no new parts, something is amiss.

kopeck · Jan 16, 2014

(quoted from post at 08:47:30 01/16/14) make sure you use 30w oil in that hyd. pump , hyd. oil wont work , also the dip stick was only used on the late model tractors like 50 & on , but will work in any years if you can find one , make sure that fill hole has the breather cap on it too, the screw under the brake cover is just to adjust brake so it dont drag the top side of band on drum nothing more

The reason they say to so 30 weight oil is there wasn't such a thing as Hydraulic oil back then.

Any of the new stuff works just the same. You also are not running the risk of cross contamination.

K

FBH44 · Jan 16, 2014

Oh yes, those concrete blocks are deadly.
Here" s my notes on adjusting my "H" brake bands.
To Adjust / Tighten Up Brakes;
[To Move Brake Pedals Closer to Transmission Cover; ]
 Un-do bottom locknut on bottom of brake drum housing.
 Then re-adjust bottom square-head bolt up firmly, then down ~ ½ / ~ ¾ turn.
 Tighten the bottom locknut BUT NOT TOO TIGHT, you may rip it out.
 Remove cotter pins.
 Un-do the rear portion of the springs.
 Remove the clevis pins.
 Thread IN the clevis to tighten up the brakes. [1 full turn moves brake pedal ~ 1/8” closer to transmission cover.]
 Reassemble.
 Do each side evenly, so tractor brakes evenly left/fright.

Sparky70 · Jan 16, 2014

Looks good. Just curious. Did you strip it down as in first pic and paint from there?

Janicholson · Jan 16, 2014

The principal in an Ohio School where I taught died under a Pontiac Star Chief from sideways blocks.
Jim

Joe Scribner · Jan 16, 2014

I sure agree with replacing the cement blocks. When I was 16 I was replacing the rear axle in my 67 Chevelle. I was laying under the car with my legs under the axle tube between the diff and the brake drum when the concrete blocks collapsed on me. No broken bones but I was pinned to the ground. Lucky it was a gravel drive and I dug myself out. I had severe bruising on my legs and I tell ya there's not much room over the axle !!

D Slater · Jan 16, 2014

Just wondering where the information came from about no dipsticks until 1950?

Reinders · Jan 16, 2014

Thanks for the relies abut the blocks. Good to know and I should have known better. I am going to weld up a split stand and use that for next years project, JD model A. Sorry, no red next time around.

Reinders · Jan 16, 2014

The tractor was taken completely apart and every part was sandblasted. The chassis was left intact from the clutch housing back. That part was needle scrapped. Then prime, paint, and now rebuilding.

Wayne in MN · Jan 16, 2014

Lift-All takes 6 quarts of oil. Fashion yourself a dipstick form a stiff piece of wire and a washer larger than the pipe and smaller than the cap threads. Ask again in a new question (thread) without a picture of the concrete blocks and someone will give you the measurements. Or search the Farmall Forum for "Lift-All dipstick".

Dave S. · Jan 16, 2014

Here are the dimensions for the liftall dipstick. If you want some pictures of a dipstick e-mail me your personal e-mail and I will send some pictures as an attachment. My mail should be open.

Dipstick Information

Washer Diameter - .880
Rod Diameter – 5/32”
Rod Length – 11 ¾”
Rod length from bottom of washer to tip 11 ½”
Full mark from bottom of washer 9 ½”

mkirsch · Jan 17, 2014

Not only did you use cinder blocks, but you laid them the wrong way. They are far stronger and as safe as they could possibly be if you lay then like they sit in a wall, then cap them with a plank.

Still not a good idea, but better than what you have now. We want the red to be on the tractor, not in a puddle on the floor.

hadley · Jan 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 05:36:57 01/17/14) Here are the dimensions for the liftall dipstick. If you want some pictures of a dipstick e-mail me your personal e-mail and I will send some pictures as an attachment. My mail should be open.

Dipstick Information

Washer Diameter - .880
Rod Diameter – 5/32”
Rod Length – 11 ¾”
Rod length from bottom of washer to tip 11 ½”
Full mark from bottom of washer 9 ½”

Can't get the Email to work, Dave can you give me your email so I can get ahold of you about the dipstick pictures?
Thanks Hadley

Jim Becker · Jan 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 18:26:01 01/16/14) Just wondering where the information came from about no dipsticks until 1950?

was just looking at a Service Bulletin dated 12/26/1941. It makes a reference to "the washer on the gauge or oil stick". This bulletin is talking about the M rather then the H, but it still shows the stick existed long before 1950.

Pappy · Jan 17, 2014

Seems as others have answered your questions, but I have one. What brand of tires are on the rear?
Look interesting, probably make for a smooth ride.

hadley · Jan 17, 2014

I was rather curious about those myself as I have never seen any tires like that in that size.

F-Dean · Jan 17, 2014

I believe the Manual specifies 30 weight Non-Detergent oil.

Owen Aaland · Jan 17, 2014

(quoted from post at 09:31:15 01/17/14) Not only did you use cinder blocks, but you laid them the wrong way. They are far stronger and as safe as they could possibly be if you lay then like they sit in a wall, then cap them with a plank.

Still not a good idea, but better than what you have now. We want the red to be on the tractor, not in a puddle on the floor.

Even better would be to use a soft pine board between each block to spread the force evenly. In a wall the mortar serves this purpose.

Dave S. · Jan 17, 2014

My e-mail is [email protected]

Matt Reinders · Jan 17, 2014

Those are Titan Tires. The company is an offshoot of Good Year and are based out of Des Moines, IA. You re right, they are smooth riding.

Reinders · Jan 17, 2014

You are absolutely correct and again I should have know
better. I do have a pine board between the blocks and chassis
and a jack stand in front of the blocks, but still all of you are
right about the blocks. Dumb move on my part. The front end
is back on now so I'm all set now.

wilsonsk · Jan 17, 2014

Awesome H, I own a 1950, unrestored at this point, I'm too busy using it.

I typically am not the one posting safety tips, nor heeding them most of the time, but I have had 2 failures over the years supporting vehicles and one of them was using a cinder block as a jack stand to do some brake work. I was using the block in the correct orientation, but no wood on top, I had the axle tube resting on it, it split and that axle hit the ground with blinding speed, I knew better, have always known better, but never realized just how easily or quickly it happened. I was clear of it when it went, but it has stuck i my mind ever since, I watched it split in that fraction of a second, can still see it.

The other was a jack stand on gravel, gravel appeared to be plenty compacted and flat, it tipped, digging into the gravel and there again, it went so quickly there would have been no getting out of the way, again I wasn't hurt, but appreciate the lesson.

2 Farmall H questions

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