Farmall C points

Hey all,

I"m looking for some advice as to the simplest approach to replacing the points on a Farmall C (to-my-knowledge all original electrical - 6V system and horizontally mounted distributor). I"m asking because I"ve never done any ignition work before but dad suggested I take care of this "maintenance". I"ve got the cap and rotor off, shattered the dust cap to pieces and now I"m looking at the points, etc. My question is...in your experience is it simplest to remove the distributor and drive assembly from the tractor? It seems the engine oil filter and manure loader frame are going to make replacing points, condensor, etc. tricky (PITA). Reason for asking is I"m apprehensive to do this if I"m going to have to mess with engine timing...never done that either...Could someone with experience here please let me know of the simplest way for a novice to tackle this is? Your help is, as always, much appreciated!

If you pull the distributor yes you will have a fun time with timing. Doing the points while yes a pain they can be done in place and that is how they should be done. If the loader frame as in lift part is in the way figure out a way to jack it up hoist it up etc to move it out of the way. As for the condenser leave it in and just do the points. Most condensers almost never go bad and now days right out of the box you have a 5-/50 chance the new ones are good

If you ,ark the position of the Rotor tip very carefully, and watch what happens to the rotor as you pull the distributor out, and if it goes back in to exactly that spot, all is well.
The dust cap is not essential. Many many Farmalls with no dust cap.
Be sure the centrifugal advance works. If the rotor can turn a few degrees in the direction of the rotors rotation (CW) then spring back to prior position it is probably fine. If it moves and stays, or flops with no spring action it is not OK. Let us know if this happens.
Which ever way you decide to work on it, be very careful to not drop screws.
Be careful to look at the exact order of the leads going to the connection stud to the coil.
Polish the contacts with fine paper sideways to the easy way.
Be sure the cam lobe is fully pushing the points open when you set the gap (.020"). Put a dab of point lune on the side of the new point's rubbing block that is CCW of the block. (lets lube go into the gap when the cam passes by (use about a baby aspirin amount.
Do not over tighten the screws or use a dull screwdriver.
Use good light and warmth!!
be sure the leads do not accidentally touch ground, it will not run that way.
Do not grind off corrosion on the cap or rotor. a light sanding is OK but do not scratch the interior of the cap it will make conductive traces later.
It is simple but not easy to do it right till your third or fourth set is changed. Go for it.
I also would only change the condenser if there were radical signs of point erossion or a 1/16" spike on one point and a pit on the other. There are many bad condensers that are new. (How often do you change them in your other electronic equipment? NEVER. They used to be made from rolled up wax paper and tin foil. They (good ones) last for a long long time now.
Jim

I replaced the points on my 400 about three weeks ago or less. I removed the distributor cap and then rotated the engine until the rotor was pointed to where the #1 terminal would have been, had the cap been on the distributor. I then checked the alignment of the timing mark on the pulley to the pointer. I took the distributor off the tractor and took it into the house. I was careful to not rotate the shaft, but that would not matter as long as it were returned to the #1 position before installing it. After installing the new points I put it back on the tractor and it started right up. Easy to do.
SDE