Using a fire wrench?

Kellyc

Member
I am going to swap out the wheels from 300 to my H.
( I assume they will fit)
I busted one socket trying to loosen the bolts on the axle wedge.
What do I want to heat up. The bolt or the wedge?
I know stupid question but I have never done it before.
Oh and do I wait until it has cooled before I apply pressure?
 
Thanks Randy, I was not quite sure. Its seemed like the clamp was a big Ol heat sink.

I need my H running again. Snow is getting piled up and I need to move the piles.
Snow plows are fine until you get all the spots full.
 
Heat the clamp then use a pumper oil can and give it some ATF and let it sit a few minutes. Ya you may get a bit of smoke but doing it that way sure seems to free things up pretty fast
 
Heat up the clamp. You're trying to raise the temperature of the rust at the threads to above 500-800F degrees to break it down. Does not need to be red hot. Heat it up, add some light oil or ATF, and try turning it.
 
Kelly it is steel bolt into cast so it should not be froze to bad. I had a h this last year that many years ago leaked CC down on the bolts and the bolts were rusted solid in the wheel I heated the casting up and they broke loose and when I got them out over half of the diameter of the bolt was gone. I had steady pressure on the bolt when I was heating it and when it moved I went back and forth till most of the rust fell out.

Bob
 
A question this piece begs for an answer ?? After disassembly and starting to reassemble the bolts ??? WOULD it be advantageous to butter the bolts with "anti seez" compound or would this give other complications??
Wm.
 
I am taking the wheels off this one, I have robbed so many parts off of it. its a parts machine now.

300-testdrive2.jpg


And putting them on this one. The rubber pretty much has rotten off and the old welded rims have given out.

IMAGE034.jpg
 
Methods to free up frozen bolts are like... well, you know. Everyone has one.

You can heat the clamp or you can heat the bolt. In this case the clamp will be more effective because the heat has a looooooong way to travel down the bolt to reach the threads. It would be hard to maintain the heat long enough without melting the bolt.

If you can get some penetrating oil down into the bolt hole from the backside after you heat it that would be good. First off it cools the bolt and shocks it loose from the clamp. Second off some of the lube gets drawn down into the threads which doesn't hurt your chances.

When you heat the clamp, you want to turn the bolt while the clamp is still hot. It's all about thermal expansion. The clamp has expanded away from the bolt.

When you heat the bolt, you want to wait until the bolt cools. First off the hot bolt is soft and will twist off. Second off the hot bolt is expanded and tighter in the hole than before. The expanding bolt "stretches" the cast clamp slightly when it expands.

That's just for future reference. Heating the bolt won't work well here because the head is so far from the clamp.
 

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