If anyone can see at about 1 O"clock there"s a notch where the bottom seal is seated for the sleeve (706 rebuild). Is this supposed to be here? It"s not in all cylinders. I mean, if the seal is supposed to keep the water out of the oil (the reason for the rebuild) then why is there a notch where the seal goes? Also, any tips on making sure the sleeve and seal are in correctly when I insert the sleeves? I"m told that if the seal is somehow boogered up then I"ll still have water in the oil pan.
- Thread starter rnicholas
- Start date
OliverMan1855
Member
Looks like erosion, cavitation. And there is minerals in the block "the brown crap". there are 2 282's at school new blocks that did not have any notches i recall. Make sure when you build it you use distilled water with he coolant if its a concentrate other wise tap water will cause all the junk and erosion because of the minerals in the water.
As mentioned above Cavitation is a by-product of normal operation on a diesel engine, and if the DCA is not checked and maintained at each oil change, both the block & liners will look as though you have termites in your cooling system.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/fleetguard/DCA60L.asp
I was employed as a diesel mechanic for many years and have witnessed this damage first hand.
Since your damage seems minimal in that one small area of the sealing surface it should be relatively easy to repair with many products on the market. Be sure to use one that is relatively easy to re-create the sealing surface, and definitely get some dca test strips. Does you 706 have a water filter on the engine? If not, they are easy to rig up, and you could then install a new water filter with the DCA already added to the water filter.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/fleetguard/257715S.asp
http://www.dieselmanor.com/fleetguard/DCA60L.asp
I was employed as a diesel mechanic for many years and have witnessed this damage first hand.
Since your damage seems minimal in that one small area of the sealing surface it should be relatively easy to repair with many products on the market. Be sure to use one that is relatively easy to re-create the sealing surface, and definitely get some dca test strips. Does you 706 have a water filter on the engine? If not, they are easy to rig up, and you could then install a new water filter with the DCA already added to the water filter.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/fleetguard/257715S.asp
Larry B. 1486
Member
A 706 has dry sleeves.
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
Since the area is above the sleeve O ring it will be fine. I am resleeving a D 246 in a Hydro 84 now, there were 2 different size O rings in each sleeve assembly, mine takes the thinner ring. You should measure the O ring block groove to see which ring it needs, should be in your service manual.
Dieseltech
Well-known Member
- Location
- Akron, Indiana
He has late 706 with German 310.
Thanks everyone. Cleaning this thing up for the new parts is going to take more time than anything. As for the wet sleeve/dry sleeve thing, I only know what I see when I pulled the sleeves (no easy task--even with a puller). I've got a rebuild kit so hopefully everything is there. I just want to get this thing purring like a kitten and keep coolant out of the oil pan.
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Unless that little notch continues down into the Oring groove, it will be fine. The pressure on the Oring is from inside the water jacket toward the oil pan. Thus, no leak. Wet sleeves (what you have) are in contact with the coolant on their outer surface. Dry sleeves are thin, and are liners for a full cast iron cylinder. Tey do not touch the water, but conduct heat through the contact with the iron of the block. Jim
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