conventional points or electronic?

SDE

Well-known Member
My 400 needs the points replaced. Is it worth $117 to put in the more expensive Pertronics? If it is, which one do you buy? Ignitor, Ignitor II or Ignitor III?
Thank you
SDE
 
As for me i can buy a lot of points for the cost of that system. and if i do have a problem with a set of points i can take a point file and atleast get the tractor going long enough to get a new set of points. when the new and IMPROVED electronic system takes a dump on you you are dead in the water till you either get a new system or ya got back to the old system . Myself i stick with the old way.
 
I would highly suggest the electronic system. I fought my Super H's points systems for months. After researching the electronic system I decided to convert it. It took all of about thirty minutes. Starts with the quickest push of the starter switch and sounds great. The only word of caution I would give is that when the tractor is not running to be sure that the kill switch is in the off position as I have heard that if its not running it can burn up the electronic module. The other advantage is that it can go in your existing distributor so it still looks stock. I believe mine was the ignitor 2 model. Hope this helps.

TMCKEE
 
yep, 2nd that also.
hmmm, always wonder what happens if a computer would go down on an airbus.?
spares, manual, or crash?
 
As LONG AS THEY ARE WORKING ???????? An electronic switch provides fast more positive coil current switching absent the mechanical points bounce, ringing, and their burning and pitting which decreases spark energy as time goes by.

HOWEVER 1) To get the most bang for the buck and to get all the advantages the elec switch has to offer, if you couple it with a high energy coil, then you discharge more energy (volts x amps x time and heat) across the plugs gap when it fires. Most people report improved starting and idling performance when an elec switch and high energy coil is used

HOWEVER 2) if the elec switch fails your dead in the water,,,,,,,,,out much more money,,,,,,,,,versus a cheap set of points you can replace in the field to get back home or often simply file them and get back home

SOOOOOOOOOOO both systems offer advantages and disadvanatges.............. ITS YOUR CHOICE

Disclaimer, the above is an opinion and like ALL opinions here it may be right and it may be wrong, Im NOT saying it is or it isn't

John T
 
Thousands of those systems have been working for 60 pluss yrs 'IF'they were in shape. So why would electronic be any better its not a racing machine.
 
kettering ignition has ben around and around.

if you were 'fighting' the points for months.. you were, no offense, doing something wrong.

starting at the push of a button describes many points based machiens i own.. including a 44 H ande a quite worn out fleet of fords.
 
I can answer your question Gene: "So why would electronic be any better its not a racing machine."

A solid state switch is better because, unlike mechanical bouncing burning points, it provides a fast positive non ringing coil current switch, and unlike points, is doesn't build up resistive carbon and pitting and burning which over time weakens the spark.

BUT THATS PROVIDED IT WORKS cuz if not your out big bucks and are stranded while if points a filing can get you back to the shop!!!!!!

Indeed the old mechanical points ignition worked for years and years and will still go years and years more, but just like the auto industry and marine engines and all other types of engines even modern tractor and lawn mower engines most are now solid state, just a sign of the times and progress I reckon. Oh well.......

Note I like originality which is why I prefer points and generators versus elec switches and alternators on our old tractors. Even if modern solid state technology provides a better more positive and faster coil current switch then bouncing burning ringing mechanical points LIKE MANY HERE I STILL PREFER ORIGINALITY IN MY ANTIQUE TRACTORS AND AGREE WITH YOU THEY WORKED THAT WAY FOR YEARS AND WHY CHANGE LOL

I guess Im an old fuddy also, and even if a solid state switch is better, I still use points in my remaining old tractors yayyyyyyyyyy

Merry Christmas

John T
 
I put one in a few years ago, love it. No more maintance that our 8n needs. More of a letdown issue when we need it most. I also went to NGK plugs and found to last much longer than auto light or champion. Liked em both until finally realised I was wrong and friends right. Better quality plug. My tractor pulls, plows and does general chores here at home. Good luck and go with your gut.
 
I put electronic into my 140 in 2006 and it has been trouble free ever since. I used to have to change the rotor and distributor cap every winter, and now I can't remember when I last did it. Others have had the same experience, including Hugh McKay. (We discussed it once on here. He loved them)

I keep the old points and stuff in a plastic spice jar with one of those desiccant packs under the seat. I can deconvert in minutes if it ever crumps in the field. Seven years of never messing with points and stronger starts, plus the rotor/cap thing--I'm sold. If it crumps tomorrow, I'm buying another.
 
Both choices are good, and as John (and others) have stated, they both have advantages and issues.

Personally, I prefer magnetos, and hence points. I'll put my 1938 F30 with the F4 mag up against any tractor points or electronic for ease of starting. Hand crank to boot. Even on the letter series tractors, I prefer a mag. Don't need no battery to run........other than to turn the starter over and that isn't even a requirement, just much, much easier.

Your tractor, your choice.
 
(quoted from post at 20:38:32 12/21/13) I put electronic into my 140 in 2006 and it has been trouble free ever since. I used to have to change the rotor and distributor cap every winter, and now I can't remember when I last did it. Others have had the same experience, including Hugh McKay. (We discussed it once on here. He loved them)

I keep the old points and stuff in a plastic spice jar with one of those desiccant packs under the seat. I can deconvert in minutes if it ever crumps in the field. Seven years of never messing with points and stronger starts, plus the rotor/cap thing--I'm sold. If it crumps tomorrow, I'm buying another.

If you are so sure they are so good why do you keep the old points just in case?
 
(quoted from post at 14:25:48 12/22/13)
(quoted from post at 20:38:32 12/21/13) I put electronic into my 140 in 2006 and it has been trouble free ever since. I used to have to change the rotor and distributor cap every winter, and now I can't remember when I last did it. Others have had the same experience, including Hugh McKay. (We discussed it once on here. He loved them)

I keep the old points and stuff in a plastic spice jar with one of those desiccant packs under the seat. I can deconvert in minutes if it ever crumps in the field. Seven years of never messing with points and stronger starts, plus the rotor/cap thing--I'm sold. If it crumps tomorrow, I'm buying another.



If you are so sure they are so good why do you keep the old points just in case?

I did that when I first installed it and I had no idea how good it would be. You think I should throw the points out now that the electronic is seven years old? I assume it will die eventually.
 
Seems like the electronic stuff has more problems that i have noticed on rides ect figure its because of bad installation ect i still like my mags they just work
 
I've seen mags, battery point and electronic ignition all fail. I put electronic on one of my N's to see how I liked it. The M and other N will get it this spring. All of my stuff is 12 volt and they are workers, not play pretties or trailer queens. On the converted N I really can't compare starting before and after as I added the ignition while I did a badly needed engine rebuild. But compared to the other N, with engine in good condition, it starts better.

Rick
 
(quoted from post at 11:25:48 12/22/13)
(quoted from post at 20:38:32 12/21/13) I put electronic into my 140 in 2006 and it has been trouble free ever since. I used to have to change the rotor and distributor cap every winter, and now I can't remember when I last did it. Others have had the same experience, including Hugh McKay. (We discussed it once on here. He loved them)

I keep the old points and stuff in a plastic spice jar with one of those desiccant packs under the seat. I can deconvert in minutes if it ever crumps in the field. Seven years of never messing with points and stronger starts, plus the rotor/cap thing--I'm sold. If it crumps tomorrow, I'm buying another.

If you are so sure they are so good why do you keep the old points just in case?

Because all you guys do is run them down...
 
I converted my Dad's SW6 over 12 volt, also put in electronic ignition. Threw the points into the garage, also have converted over my W450 & his H.
 

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