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Farmall H 6V Magneto Starting Problems

B

Brady Miller

Member
Gentlemen,

Here is the situation: Former owner says tractor has a hard time starting when its cold. Obvious Problems: Choke causes carb to flood easy, going to get a carb kit in the am.

Changed out all expendables in magneto except magneto winding. I am getting fire to ends of new plug wires. Will not start. It did try to backfire once with adjustment of magneto in center of adjustment. Also did try to reverse plug wires. Did set Tractor to #1 TDC, but rotor did not reflect #1 firing position.

I know we need to start back with the basics, but lets talk about it. What am I forgetting? by the way, it is hard to start when cold.

All of my other stuff is 12 V and distributor style. I also don"t understand how the magneto works with the kill switch like that.

Also could use a good wiring diagram, going to clean that up a bit too. It is positive ground 6V.

Thanks,

Brady
 
you dont have the magneto timed correctly.
you have to be timed to #1 cyl. on compression stroke. rotor must also be pointing to #1 cyl.
or... if you are timed correctly to one of the 4 cyl's, then just install the wires to match the firing order. for correctness #1 cyl's wire should be at 2 oclock position. firing order is 1342 going clockwise from 2 oclock.
the kill button is only a ground , kills the spark when it is pushed in. if unsure about that then just disconnect it at mag till you get tractor started.
perfectly normal to have gas dripping when choking tractor. not carbs fault unless it is truely flooding.
so pull #1 plug out and recheck timing, as you need to fix things in order and be sure of it.
no sense getting in a bigger bind.
turn tractor slowly over with help if needed and watch for mag to snap as timing marks are coming into view. should snap right on the mark.
wires must match rotor position.
 
Hi Brady. This video helped me a lot. Took some of the mystery out of the process. The owners manual also explains step by step the process of static timing. That's what worked for me, first try. Of course I had a better than new rebuilt mag. by Weaver's Mag Repair. Paid through the nose for it, but it was worth it, as I am quite happy on how it's performing. Not sure if the link will appear blue. If not, you will have to type the address on your browser, and it will get you there.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqucExhxXdE&feature=player_detailpage

Pay attention to the clock position of the mating mag. coupler when the motor is at TDC as shown in the video, very important.

Here's the diagram you will want to use.



Best regards
Patrick
'49M
 
You need to get #1 on TDC then see where the rotor is sounds like the rotor needs to be timed up with the tower when engine is on TDC by removing the cap end of the mag and removing the three screws so you can get the gears lined up so the rotor is lined up with the tower. Make a mark on the body so you can tell where #1 tower is so you can get the rotor positioned. You must be off just a tooth or so if it backfires. Mite want to remove all plugs makes turning engine easier. With the cap off then you can have someone turn engine over and with your finger in the hole you can see where the rotor is when it snaps at TDC. If you have had the mag out you could have put it back in 180 out of time.
 
When you remove the No1 sparkplug near the radiator and feel pressure against your thumb drop a long plastic straw on top of the piston and have someone slowly crank the engine while you watch the straw rise. When it quits rising take a look at your rotor to see where its pointing. It should be at your no1 plug wire which is about 2 o'clock. Also your plug wires need to be in this firing order on your cap and the wires going to correct plug in the firing order. Set the points at .013". Rub the points with some 400 wet or dry. Hal

2-1
4-3 As the rotor rotates CW.
 
You have the plugs fouled by choking too much. Get new ones or burn off the old ones with a torch. When starting it cold, leave the switch off , close the choke & turn it over ONE compression. Then open the choke, turn the switch on with the throttle about 1/4 open & it should fire right up if you have a good hot spark. Never try to start it with the choke shut. If it runs OK after you get it started, chances are the mag is timed right.
 
I agree with Teddy52food.
Plugs can and do get a conductive film on them that literally shorts them out. Pull them and place them on a non combustible surface. use a propane torch to heat the electrode end of each plug by heating each a little, then moving to the next. do this until each is very hot, but not glowing red. The threads will smoke and stuff will burn off of the electrodes. While they are warm, put them in and it will start. (use Teddy"s method to prime it up. The choke will, for sure, over fuel if used for more than 1/2 second of cranking, even with a kit in the carb. If the carb does not leak when it is sitting still with the fuel on, it is not the issue. Thedrain on the carb is intended to allow overflow and choke extra fuel to drip onto the ground. (it is a tractor built when this was OK!) Jim
 
My H with 12V and distributor likes a quick burst of choke, so I agree with the others. I just pull it out and push it in about as fast as I can, it has never failed to start.
 
My M runs everyday regardless of weather. Even when it is zero you use very little choke. Start cranking and then flutter the choke for just a second. When it starts it needs a little (maybe half) to stay running for the first 10 seconds then nothing. I don't even think about choke unless it is below 30.

Get the mag timed right, replace the plugs, and it should go. Do you have thick enough cables to get the wee volts you have to the starter? Everything has to be in top shape. It's all 70 years old now.
 
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