f24 carburetor

Countryboybct · Nov 13, 2013

Is the small brass tube that goes between the 2 halves of the carburetor replaceable? Do anyone know a part # and where i could find one?

Countryboybct · Nov 13, 2013

(quoted from post at 02:45:06 11/14/13) Is the small brass tube that goes between the 2 halves of the carburetor replaceable? Do anyone know a part # and where i could find one?

I meant to say F14 carburetor

Tom Fleming · Nov 13, 2013

are you talking about the one that is 90 degrees to the venturi?

Countryboybct · Nov 13, 2013

No .. The one that sticks straight up in the air out of the bottom
half if you were to seperate the carb in half

Tom Fleming · Nov 13, 2013

well, I am confused. The only farmall carb I am aware of that has a small brass tube between the 2 halves is a Cub carb. Now, if you are talking about the float valve seat, then that is different, but I wouldn't call that small.

I am more than willing to help, but I am not familiar with the tube you are referring to. Can you post a picture?

John M · Nov 14, 2013

Im sure it can be, but done know any specifics on it
or who would have just that piece. Ive only taken
apart maybe 3 or 4 of those, and only one had the
tube, so maybe there was a running change, or the
ones I took apart had already been broken before.

Tom Fleming · Nov 14, 2013

John, interesting. I have rebuilt a couple of these, and none of them had the described tube. However, all mine were the later, all cast ones.

Will be interesting to see if there is an early variant......

John M · Nov 14, 2013

To the best of my recollection, the one with a tube
was the brass one. The steel one on my 14 doesnt
have one.

36F30 · Nov 14, 2013

Its not a tube its your idle metering Jet, part # 24677D-#75. Without it your gonna be hard pressed to get it to start or idle correctly.

Your talking about the brass jet just in the middle of the brass half in this pic right?

It is threaded in there, can be carefully removed with patience even if broken off it can be extracted. Try Rustic Red Acres, the Fordson house, or Alderson Tractor. Maybe get one from a used carb?

This is one broken off in a W9 Zenith carb, I extracted it, chased the threads and replaced it with one from an old M carb.

Countryboybct · Nov 14, 2013

This one I'm talking about is definitely a cast version. Im wondering if it will work ok without this little tube because its now broken off. I have one more seized in screw to remove before i can reassemble and give it a try.

Tom Fleming · Nov 14, 2013

36F30, are you saying that the cast ones should have it too? The only reason I ask, is that I have never seen one, but that could very well mean that they were all broken off of the ones I worked on.

that might explain why my F12 starts like a bear, but runs good after she starts.

I learn something new every day. I'll have to pull the parts book out and see what she says.......

36F30 · Nov 14, 2013

(quoted from post at 18:41:05 11/14/13) This one I'm talking about is definitely a cast version. Im wondering if it will work ok without this little tube because its now broken off. I have one more seized in screw to remove before i can reassemble and give it a try.

IH engineers wouldn't have put it there if you didn't need it. and the length is just as important as the hole diameter. Its a metering jet. F12/14's are known for being finicky starters not sure I'd risk it.

36F30 · Nov 14, 2013

(quoted from post at 19:10:04 11/14/13) 36F30, are you saying that the cast ones should have it too? The only reason I ask, is that I have never seen one, but that could very well mean that they were all broken off of the ones I worked on.

that might explain why my F12 starts like a bear, but runs good after she starts.

I learn something new every day. I'll have to pull the parts book out and see what she says.......

Tom, I have a cast F14 carb, I'll have to open it up and look. But all the other Ih carbs I've done had one

36F30 · Nov 14, 2013

Well my F14 cast carb most definitely has one in it.

John M · Nov 15, 2013

Ya know, that may be my problem as well. Sometimes
it starts right up on the 2nd or at most 3rd pull,
but if it sits for any length of time, its hard to
start. Ill have to check and see if I have a spare
kit and swap the lower halves out and see.

pete 23 · Nov 15, 2013

That small jet sticking up in top picture looks exactly like the idle jet in all the H up to 806 carburetors. Three or four different size hole in them though. All same part number with different suffix jet size number on end like 70 to 75.

Tom Fleming · Nov 15, 2013

Guys, I found all the info in the parts book. The part number in question is consistent: 24677D-75 Idle metering jet. So, most carbs had them, however one did not. I am posting all the info that I found for the F12/F14 as of 1943 by complete carb part #:

24707DE Serial numbers FS600 - FS608, FS3035-FS29571, Gasoline, has a 24677D-75
26322DD Same as 2470DE, except this is listed for Kerosene
26719DD Serial numbers FS4556 - FS29699, kerosene (special), has a 24677D-75
29953DB Serial numbers FS29572 - FS96764, gasoline, has a 24677D-75
29953DC Serial number FS96765 and up, gasoline, [b:bee4a8b373]does NOT have a 24677D-75[/b:bee4a8b373]
29954D Serial numbers FS29700 - FS48509, kerosene (special), has a 24677D-75
29954DA Same as 29954D, but serial numbers FS48510 - FS96301
29954DB Same as 29954D, but serial numbers FS96302 and up.

36F30 · Nov 15, 2013

Interesting the later ones didn't have em and then all of the letter series on up did. IH did a lot of tinkering with the 12/14. after all they are the basis of the letter series.

I still say since Countryboys carb had one, it needs one, and it needs to be replaced as it is integral to the idle circuit.

Tom Fleming · Nov 15, 2013

36F30, I agree 100%. Now, I am on a mad search to find some. I am working on an F14 carb right now that needs one (as well as some other things).

It would be handy to get the thread pitch and dimensions on one, as they are probably just a brass threaded tube and with a port on one end.

Stay tuned, the search is on..........

Countryboybct · Nov 16, 2013

I was going to try Rice equip. I ordered a choke plate and
some screws from them last week. That was before the little
tube broke off .

Tom Fleming · Nov 16, 2013

Well, I am checking all my parts sources to try to find these. I am not hopeful, but who knows. I am also going to see if the Wisconsin Historical Society may have the specs on the part, ie. the measurements. If we can't find NOS or replacements, we can certainly look into have a run of the made. I am sure we are not the only ones who have them broken off.

This whole thread taught me alot, and now that we have gathered parts numbers and serial numbers, we may have figured out why the F12/F14's can be a bugger to start, but then run fine. I know my 12 is that way.......

Tom Fleming · Nov 16, 2013

NOTE TO MODERATOR:

Can you edit the subject on this thread to F14? Reason is, there is come good info in here, and no one will ever search the archives for F24. So, I did a report to Moderator on this, in hopes that you can edit the subject to F14.

I am NOT reporting a bad thread or inappropriate content.

Countryboybct · Nov 16, 2013

according to my serial number, which is something like fs1486xx
it shouldn't have one going by the info Tom posted. This tractor
as the gasoline manifold and no other indication it was ever
kerosene. I have another '39 f14 which has the kerosene manifold
and original starting tank and mixing valve. Im going to try to
take that carb apart today and see how that one looks

Tom Fleming · Nov 16, 2013

36F30, can you measure the height that the tube sticks up from the gasket face of the base? Also, not sure if you have pin guages, but would be handy to know the ID and OD of the tube. I am working on a way to replace this if we can't find the original parts.

Pretty simple. using a #42 drill, clean out about 1/4" of the old tube. This leaves a little of the original in place. do NOT go too deep, as the metering orifice is at the bottom of the tube. Next, use a 4-48 tap and cut new threads. The idle metering jet for the Cub carb now threads into the hole. Trim the newly installed Cub jet to length, and you are good to go.

If the ID of the Cub jet and this one are similar, it might just be the ticket to fix these until correct ones are located.

36F30 · Nov 16, 2013

(quoted from post at 06:35:35 11/16/13) according to my serial number, which is something like fs1486xx
it shouldn't have one going by the info Tom posted. This tractor
as the gasoline manifold and no other indication it was ever
kerosene. I have another '39 f14 which has the kerosene manifold
and original starting tank and mixing valve. Im going to try to
take that carb apart today and see how that one looks

Hold on there buddy, it makes no difference what your tractor serial number is if someone swapped or replaced that carb. Lots of Kero manifolds were replaced with gas manifolds too. Really no telling what you'll find on an 80 year old tractor. You broke it off so you know its supposed to be there.

36F30 · Nov 16, 2013

Tom,I am going to try to get the one out of my cast carb, I could send it to you to measure, as long as you send it back.

Tom Fleming · Nov 16, 2013

36F30, be careful, you absolutely don't want to break it off. Even if you just measure the height from the cast to the top of the tube. That will be the important part. I have already made the changes indicated earlier, I now just need to cut the tube to length. I'll put 'er back together, and give it a test run.

36F30 · Nov 18, 2013

(quoted from post at 18:30:55 11/16/13) 36F30, be careful, you absolutely don't want to break it off. Even if you just measure the height from the cast to the top of the tube. That will be the important part. I have already made the changes indicated earlier, I now just need to cut the tube to length. I'll put 'er back together, and give it a test run.

Tom, they both stick up 13/32" from the base.

Tom Fleming · Nov 18, 2013

36F30, thanks. Now I can cut the tube to length and install. If this works, we have a workable solution for those that they are broken off.

Also, I have contacted Rice Equipment, Fordson House, Tom Underwood, and 2 other carb specialists. None have any in stock. I did learn though, that these are NOT threaded in. they are pressed in and are a fairly tight pressed fit. Getting them out without destroying them is next to impossible (according to my carb guy who does these and K5's carbs better than anyone I know).

36F30 · Nov 19, 2013

I guess I have never tried to take one out of one of these 12 carbs. I ran a torch tip cleaner through the jet and blew out the passage. I wonder if you could drill out the old broken one and then cut threads to install a #75 jet from say an H carb

Tom Fleming · Nov 19, 2013

I'll have to look into the H idle jet. If it has the #75 orifice in it, then it is good to go. Drilling and cutting threads should not be an issue.

Tom Fleming · Nov 20, 2013

Ok, the #75 jet for an H is 49798D75. They are available, and I am ordering one to see how it works out. More to come on this one. Will run both, the one with the Cub jet and the H Jet to see which one works better. If the metering holes are both #75, then either should work. Lastly, I did a little research, and I am not sure if this is correct, but the #75 is supposedly the drill size for the orifice (jet).

Looking at both solutions, the H jet would be my preference. Will just need to determine what the threads are as the carb base will have to be tapped.

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