I put a set of sleeves in a 450 engine by warming the cylinder bores with trouble lights and chilling the sleeves in a freezer. They went in easy, maybe too easy. Three of them went in without any force required. I had cleaned the bores and the outside of the sleeves with paint thinner before installing them. After I had the pistons installed I turned the crankshaft and 2 sleeves came up with the pistons and I could knock the sleeves back down with a rubber mallet. They seem to be too loose so I am wondering if there is any good way to tighten the sleeves without installing oversize sleeves. The head would hold the sleeves down but I understand that the top flange on the sleeves might break and destroy the engine.
- Thread starter Steve43
- Start date
Our Phone System is Down!
Please use the Contact us Form
We are working to resolve the issue ASAP! Thanks for your patience!
John G. Hasler
Member
Sounds like you got the wrong sleeves. You could knurl them.
A method I used successfully on an 8N with a loose sleeve, modified a bit for your situation:
1) Measure the sleeve and the bore and calculate the additional diameter needed to get the desired interference fit.
2) Cover the sleeve with enough layers (stack ten layers and measure with your micrometer or calipers) of aluminum foil to add the desired diameter. Use a thin film of light oil to glue it in place. The foil should only go about halfway down the sleeve. Make certain that there are absolutely no wrinkles.
3) Plug the bottom of the sleeve with a wooden or plastic plug. Seal it with grease.
4) slide the sleeve into the bore to just short of the foil.
5) Fill the sleeve with liquid nitrogen. After a few minutes it should drop right in. Be sure the foil doesn"t get shoved up and wrinkled by the edge of the bore.
You could also just coat the sleeves with Loctite 660. Works great on bearings but I"d want to check temperatures before using it on a sleeve.
A method I used successfully on an 8N with a loose sleeve, modified a bit for your situation:
1) Measure the sleeve and the bore and calculate the additional diameter needed to get the desired interference fit.
2) Cover the sleeve with enough layers (stack ten layers and measure with your micrometer or calipers) of aluminum foil to add the desired diameter. Use a thin film of light oil to glue it in place. The foil should only go about halfway down the sleeve. Make certain that there are absolutely no wrinkles.
3) Plug the bottom of the sleeve with a wooden or plastic plug. Seal it with grease.
4) slide the sleeve into the bore to just short of the foil.
5) Fill the sleeve with liquid nitrogen. After a few minutes it should drop right in. Be sure the foil doesn"t get shoved up and wrinkled by the edge of the bore.
You could also just coat the sleeves with Loctite 660. Works great on bearings but I"d want to check temperatures before using it on a sleeve.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have used KD block sealer a few times. It worked well. I have even used it to seal a small crack in a block from freezing.
Oregon Tractor Jack
Member
I had the same problem with the sleaves on a Farmall H. I used the Loctite sleave retaing product (660?) and it has worked fine for several years. This was for one of my pulling tractors so it does work a little from time to time. The one comment that an experience auto machinisit made about using the retaing fluid was it would take a lot of heat to get the old sleaves out once you put them in.
Owen Aaland
Well-known Member
I've had some engines where Locktite was used where we ended up having to bore the some of old sleeves out of the block.
Tom Fleming
Well-known Member
sleeves when new, should be snug, but not "tight". Also, the metal ring around each bore is also part of the whole setup for the sleeves to stay in place. Personally, I would install them as is, and make sure you have the correct head gasket with the metal rings around the cylinder holes.
I know for a fact that some wet sleeves I have installed were not sloppy, but definately not tight. When I turned the engine over prior to installing the head, they moved a bit. Those engines are still running just fine, with no issues.
it's your tractor, and your decision. Personally, I would go with it. your mileage may vary.
I know for a fact that some wet sleeves I have installed were not sloppy, but definately not tight. When I turned the engine over prior to installing the head, they moved a bit. Those engines are still running just fine, with no issues.
it's your tractor, and your decision. Personally, I would go with it. your mileage may vary.
Similar threads
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy