Weak spark question

I am having a weak spark problem with my 300. If I take the coil
wire off the cap and hold it next to the brass colored adapter
where the temperature sender screws in it will make a small
yellowish looking spark. I cleaned the points and they seem to
be opening and closing correctly. I am thinking that this may
mean that the coil or the condenser is weak. I put a new
condenser in when I got the tractor running in summer 2012, in
the fall it wouldn't spark and I put the old condenser in again
which seemed to fix the problem. I then bought condenser and
points from NAPA and put them in, the points were much better
than the ebay ones I had in it but the new condenser wouldn't
work and I had to again put the old one back in. Any advice as
to what I should do next will be much appreciated. I wouldn't
mind putting in electronic ignition if that would be better, or if
there is a source for a condenser that might work that would be
great to know. I can get a coil at NAPA that seems to work fine,
so if that is what I need that is no problem. Thank you for taking
time to read this.
Zach

6 or 12 volts the problem can be different between the 2. If 12 volts maybe the ballast resister if you have one is going bad which would cause odd problems. If 6 volts or 12 volt maybe the ignition switch is going bad. Me I almost never replace condensers any more due to them being bad right out of the box. I would hot wire it and see if that helps your sprak. If it helps and you have a blue/white spark that jumps a 1/4 inch gap when hot wired the problem if from the coil back

I tend to want you to clean and gap the points, if no joy, replace the condenser. Echlin from NAPA seem good
If no Joy a new coil is next.
THis assumes you have solid voltage at the coil from the switch, or resistor. Jim

When trying to determine if coil or condenser is at fault, the first thing you do is eliminate the points. By that I mean, either turn engine to where points are open or block them open with a piece of paper or some clean insulation of some sort. This way you don't have to be concerned about points being part of the problem. With points open, switch on, jump distributor side of coil to a good ground with what ever you have handy. A nice short jumper wire works good or a screwdriver will work. Then just make and break contact with your jumper while holding high tension coil wire about quarter inch from a good clean ground. This will tell you if you have a good spark. If you do not, then suspect feed to coil, coil itself or condenser. If you do get a good spark that way, then turn the engine to the point where you can open and close the points by turning the rotor back and forth. If you have less spark you know points are culprit. Also note, you WILL GET a yellowish spark if you spark to a dirty part like paint or grease. Ohm meters, test lights, jumper leads are your friends while checking for ignition spark.

Also, when opening and closing points with rotor, while holding coil wire near or on good ground, you should have very little if any spark at the points. The main reason for the condenser is to prevent the building voltage from causing and arc at points and wasting the stored energy in the coil by causing a sudden collapse of the magnetic field in coil. Pet peeve of mine is people looking for spark at points.

I cleaned the points but did not gap them, I will try that. I bought an Echlin condenser before for this tractor and it was bad from the start, at least the tractor would not run with it in there but would run with the old one. I will buy another one, as I recall it cost about $15 and the local NAPA does not take returns on electrical items. I will see about the voltage coming in to the coil, I know it had some but I can't remember if it was a bit over or under 12 volts. Thank you all very much.
Zach

I am leaning towards spending the $100 or so dollars and get a pertronix system for my 200 and being done with it. No more gapping and cleaning points, no more worries about bad condensers. I put one on my car several years ago and not an issue since, even starts easier.

I cleaned the pints again and gapped them, they were a little close. I do seem to have good spark now, it is dark and I can be quite sure of the color and size of the spark. It still does not want to run, but that is just how it goes, I guess. Thank you all for your help.
Zach

Doesn't any one have coil and condenser testers anymore? If it tests bad, pitch it , if it tests good, use it.

Do what you want, I did this. Yeah, I know it's not original but it does make my old M reliable. Hot spark, perfect dwell, no more fowled plugs.