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Farmall H water in oil more questions

A

Aaron Halfmann

Member
Posted early about my H having water in the oil. I've had this tractor for about 4 years and use it regularly for lawn mowing, moving fire wood too the house, and many other generally light duty chores. It starts easily on second crank and runs very well. My oil pressure gauge will max out upon start up then slower creep down to about 20-40 psi at full throttle. Use about a quart of oil every 3 months which I mostly think I bad valve guides this thought because of black/bluish and white smoke at start up. So guess my questions I plan on pulling head to see if that is were water is getting into oil and have it gone through. I would like to check cylinder pressure prior to pulling head and would like to know what kinda of pressure I should have. I do know that I don't Want to have one way lower than others. Just looking for something to go by.
TIA Aaron
 
There were different piston options in the H. My guess would be 100-125 psi with less than 10% difference between pistons.

I would pull the pan and pressure test before pulling the head.
 
I forgot to mention my intentions with checking the head pressure; was thinking that if I has to take head off it it would probably be in my best interest at that time to put an in frame kit in the motor while head was off. But pulling pan and pressure testing sounds like a very good place start thanks.

Aaron
 
I am thinking there is a soft plug on the front of the block that can allow water into the oil. I would check more before pulling head. You cannot do any pressure checking after it is pulled.
 
David
Thanks for the help. Just wondering what the best method to pressure test? Compressed air I'm sure but specifically how. Thanks again
Aaron
 
They make a radiator pressure tester that goes on the radiator cap, should be less than about 10PSI, I would not use compressed air.
 
Pressur checking should be first. do not go over 7psi as the top tank is designed for that pressure (this assumes the H is equipped with a pressure cap. Early ones were not! If the rad cap looks and near fits the gas tank, it is not a pressure type. The use of a pressure tester on the non pressure radiator will break the seals and ruin the radiator. If you end up pulling the head, have valve guide seals installed the price is reasonable, and it is a best practices way to assure proper oiling and no valve related oil loss/smoke. The rubber and teflon (Perfect Circle Style) is best. Umbrella seals will work, but are not permanent. Jim
 
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