300 RC brakes

bigboreG

Member
The brakes on my 300 are not very old, but they dont stop the tractor. I have to push HARD on the pedals and even then it will slow the tractor but not stop it. On occasion the left one will grab and skid the tire. I should say that the left one has gotten better since i plowed with it last weekend. But they just dont work as good as i think they should. What can i do to make them work better? Thanks.
 
The total cleaarance inside the housing, between the components and the friction surface at the differential housing is critical. It needs to be about .030" and .050" when the expander is fully collapsed, (not hooked to pull rod) with good springs and clean balls and ramps. this clearance can be measured with a caliper with the parts taken apart, or measured with shims to determine when a stack of shims locks the disks when the housing is tightened. More clearance than this allows the pull links and expanders to be so far from best angle that they do not apply proper force to the expander. To reduce the clearance the housing must be machined on its mating surface to close the gap. Even new disks will usually not be sufficient to get it working with wear on the housing, the expander's surfaces, and tractor friction surface. Jim
 
lay the brake housing open side up, on your bench, add the brake disks and expander and place a straight edge across the housing ..check the clearance, this will get you started in the right direction, if you need to remove some housing material
 
Ok so after i make these checks and determine what needs to be done, is there a way i can get some idea of specs for the housing clearances and such? I would imagine a service manual, if available, would provide some insight to this? I just dont want to take the housings to the machine shop and turn them loose in other words, correct? On a side note, i always thought the band brakes on the M and H tractors were a good setup, why did they have to do away with a good idea?
 
Take all the components to the machine shop and let them machine it to the specs I gave.
The Osco-Lambert disk brake (an accessory aftermarket kit (sometimes dealer installed) provided pretty good stopping power. It was reverse engeneered by IH (they probably paid royalties) and made into the Super series disk system. Their effort was less than the Osco system, but worked well when new. I worked with a former IH engineer who was on the team doing the aqdaptation. A commitment had been made, and the inertia was in place to use them. The only advanage was servo action in reverse as well as forward. Droms didn't/don't work in revers as well as forward. Maintenance was, and is, a six month drudge. The machining of a major part seems rude as well. But they really work well with .030 clearance. Jim
 
One other issue is they seem to trap moisture in the housing, the slight rust coating and swelling of the disks will give headaches too. I have made two large holes in the bottom of the brake housing for ventilation ...seems to work well
 
Thanks, both of you. The info you gave should be enough to get me started in the right direction. I like brakes that work, and work well. These kinda squeak or make or a high pitched noise at times, drives me nuts! I will take them off this weekend and see what things look like.
 

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