Farmall B Puller

Looking to find out what to do for rear wheels, everything seems to be 8 bolt instead of 6 like the a/b

I think I would pull a real tractor.

I hope you know each other, given such a response.

(quoted from post at 19:02:21 10/03/13) I hope you know each other, given such a response.

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No, but an A/B is not made for heavy drawbar work. They are 16 hp on a good day and they don't have a frame! They are an implement with a motor.

There are 2 options on the wheels that I know about, both stock IHC. The A came with a cast wheel center on 1 side and a stamped steel center on the other. If you are looking to go heavy, then get 2 cast centers. if you are looking to go light, then get 2 stamped centers.

Pulling in my area is by weight class. So, there are a couple of guys that pull B's and C's. The problem with a B or BN is the light front end.

Lastly, a C-113 can be souped up a bit just like any other engine. If someone were willing to put the money in it, 30-35 HP is possible......which on that smaller tractor would be a traction problem in the weight class. But it would be a real horse in the 2500 class..................

I haven't seen an A or B pull around here but have seen a C and a SC pull and they did good in their weight class. They are basiclly the same, no frame rails. Would a person be able to maybe put a piece of angle iron down each side to give it a bit of extra strength for pulling if they wanted to? Could also use that to hang weights from.
Don't own an A or B but just wondering, would like to see more of the small farmalls pull because never see them pulling.

I see an occasional A or B pulling in the 3000 and 3500lb classes, when they run them. You see a lot more Cs, though.

Fred, what are you trying to accomplish?

About the only thing that will bolt on a B is a wheel center off an A or a B series tractor.

You could do 36" tires with wheels off an AV.

You could also weld tabs to blank rims and put whatever size tires you want on the stock B wheel centers.

I'm thinking about pulling my 140 so your not the only one.

I do pull a real tractor sflem849 but instead of waiting around all day to pull every time i'm building a light tractor and pulling most of the day

Let me start by saying I dont know a lot about pulling. But there are two guys in our club that pull Bs. Both of them seem to run out of traction long before they run out of power. One of them has oversized tires on it and still spins out early it seems. If you can figure out how to make it hook up I think they would pull.

sflem -- Maybe so, but my dad bought the first new B sold in our home county in south Texas. Bought mainly as a cultivating tractor (the best there was in those days and may be today). I was only 1 or 2 years old, but he was surprised at what that tractor would do. It would pull a 6 ft disk and I think a 3 disk tiller (one way). You hear more about the A, but B's will do the same thing. Hugh McKay has said several times that an A will out pull a C-- I have not compared them.

(quoted from post at 14:41:57 10/04/13) sflem -- Maybe so, but my dad bought the first new B sold in our home county in south Texas. Bought mainly as a cultivating tractor (the best there was in those days and may be today). I was only 1 or 2 years old, but he was surprised at what that tractor would do. It would pull a 6 ft disk and I think a 3 disk tiller (one way). You hear more about the A, but B's will do the same thing. Hugh McKay has said several times that an A will out pull a C-- I have not compared them.

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I suppose. I have seen too many Cs and Bs that tried to break in half and that is the biggest thing that scares me. I guess that doesn't come from pulling hard. It could break the front off if you slam it down hard.

Our club doesn't pull down that low. I think the lowest is 4000 or 4500. There are Hs pulling down that low and I doubt a B would be much of a match for an H. Maybe the H would be too light down there where the B could be perfectly weighted and compete?

On the A, B, BN design, the drawbar attaches to the final drive housings, so no significant stress is placed on the engine/transmission/torque tube while pulling a load from the drawbar.

All of the pulls I participate in here in western PA start at 2500 and go up, usually 500 lb increments, although a couple do 1000 lb increments. The problem you will run into is that for the weight/HP ratio, you will end up being in higher weight classes to keep from losing traction. Those higher weight classes also tend to have the higher HP. This summer , I pulled my F30 HAN in the 5500 class. I stayed with everything that competed, and I always ran out of traction. When I tried the 6500, I didn't run out of traction, but got outclassed on the HP.



Power to weight ratio is key, and a properly tuned C-113 will surprise you at what it can do. I have a BN that I use to skid logs out of the woods for firewood......many times I came out of the woods steering with the brakes because the front wheels were off the ground.....as I posted before is the light front end is the challenge. For the size and weight, the A, B, BN design will do a surprising amount of work.

That will always be the challenge.

have a machine shop make wheel adapters.
if you really want it to hook up adapt to 9 bolt and put on 13.6 38s if your clup allows. or 13.9 36s if you can find em