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wont run after new carb install

P

pisgah ihman

New User
Had the carb rebuilt.that carb has issues. so i bought a rebuilt for the implament dealer.got the govener in the tab on the carb,on the second try. Started it, ran for maybe a few minates drove it 50 yards turned around to come back,made it halfway. it just started sputtering and died.now try to start it just sputters kinda wants to fun. but wont. clean junk out of the gas tank. looking over the air breather tube it clear. what is going on? any ideas!
 
There is a filter in the line at the carb fitting. the sediment bowl, and the pipe that connects the sediment bowl to the tank. (which tractor makes a difference) there should be a steady stream out the carb bowl drain into a can test for more than one minute. If it slows or stops the supply is the issue.
Electrical issues can act that same way. If this is the first it has run it could be ignition, not fuel. Jim
 
i took the sedament bulb off the tank tore it apart cleaned it and the screen.blew air threw it. has a steady supply of gas. i thought it was straved for fuel too. still didnt work.if you choke it for a few seconds it gets flooded.getting plenty of fuel.So what would it be if its electrical. coil?
 
The coil is a possibility, but the testing of the ignition is better than putting parts in it without knowing what the issue is.
First set the points assuming it is a Farmall letter series with point and coil distributor (we still do not know what tractor it is). clean them with a little fine sand paper od an emery board. then wipe them with a folded dollar to assure they are clean. The points are set on the highest bump of the distributor cam at .020" this usually requires turning the engine by hand, or pushing in high gear as the engine does not normally stop on a compression stroke TDC.
When the points are set, place the coil wire about 1/4" away from the engine block (use a clothspin to hold it or adjust the position to avoid a solid shock), turn on the ignition and use a small screw driver to bridge between the points (dont bend them, just use the driver to make contact across them. There should be a little spark there, and the coil chould spark to the block nice and blue. Thready and yellow is bad. If it sparks, the coil is good (at least when cold)
Button up and try starting it again.
 
Install a hose barb nipple on the bowl drain on the bottom of the carb. Install a clear hose up the side plenty high up to show the fuel level. Go ahead and run the tractor keeping an eye on the fuel level in the carb. If it drops as you are running, you have a blockage somewhere. If the level stays constant and it dies, you have an electrical issue.
 
Am I missing something? is this a Ford, Farmall,Oliver, JD or what? What year , what model? Who did the carb? You can't get help if you don't fill in a few blanks
 
Doesn't matter what tractor it is, the basics for when they won't run are exactly the same for any gasoline-powered tractor.

From his description of the tab, it sounds like an H or an M.

If you put the new carb on BEFORE you cleaned the tank, the carb is sucked full of silt. Probably blocking the jets.

Do a basic spark check first and make sure you're getting bright blue spark on all four cylinders, but I doubt it's a spark issue.

FYI buying a new carb is a colossal waste of money. Unless the old one is missing or smashed to pieces, it can be rebuilt. You may have to take it apart 2-3 times to get it right the first few times, but it's not that complicated or hard to do.

Now, you are probably going to have to take the new carb apart and rebuild it anyway, or drop another $300-$500 on another new carb. You could've put a $50 rebuild kit in the old carb.
 
sorry guys its a M farmall. going work on it this weekend. going to put in new point and a coil. and go from there. and it belongs to my mom. it was dads when he was alive. so she wanted a new carb so ....! anyway thanks for the help!
 
well! put a new coil on andded new exhaust gaskets i needed also.not that the gaskets had anything to do with the problem,just needed replaced. got everything bad together , ran great! for about 5min. then started sputtering like it wasnt hitting on all cylinders. and the coil was hot,its brand new. just put it on before i started it.going put in new point today. look things over and try again. thanx for the help guys! ill be back with an update.
 
If you went to the parts store and said, "I need a coil for a Farmall M" they will sell you a 6 Volt coil.

If your Farmall M has been converted to 12 Volts, and you put that 6 Volt coil on without a ballast resistor, it will get HOT within about 5 minutes, and your tractor will start to sputter and miss.

You need to get a 12 Volt coil that is labeled "no ballast resistor required" or you need to install a ballast resistor between the ignition switch and the coil.
 
I just went through something similar on my340 U. it was driving me crazy! I had the carb on, off and apart so many times i can do it now blindfolded!!!
Through all the screwing around I discovered a leaking head gasket, so I decided to pull the whole thing down and fix it right. During disassembly, I was pulling the manifold off and discovered that ALL of the bolts were loose.. i barely nudged the ratchet to get them to turn. Even though I used either looking for a vacuum leak (to no avail) The gasket was shot and leaking...
Check your manifold fasteners.. Not saying that it's the problem, but I'm sure it was a big part of what was wrong on my tractor... And you can do it in minutes.
Good luck!
 
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