Super m engine stuck

Gents,
I'm rebuilding a super m. The engine is stuck, I've heard to use diesel and transmission fluid to loosen the pistons against the liners. It has standard flat top pistons and standard 4" liners. I have put a pipe wrench on the crank and put some pressure with a cherry picker. It has been sitting for 5 years. I drained about 3/4 gallon of water out with the old oil. I am going to do a good inspection of the oil pump too. What do I need to look for on the oil pump? Any trick to free up the pistons? Thanks
 
Pull the head.If its stuck that hard ,there is no 'magic potion' to free it up.Then the piston/sleeve/rings will be damaged beyond use.Time to overhaul...
 
Pull the head. It is not going to be reasonable to force it. Some pistons may come out in pieces. Save the rods. Jim
 
Water in the oil is not good but where did it come from. What do the spark plugs look like. Have you checked to see if any of the cylinders have water in them?? If the plugs look real rusty and or you find water in any cylinder you stand about a 90% chance you will not free it up. Now if the plugs look pretty good and not rusty and no water in the cylinders it may free up. Use straight ATF no diesel and fill the cylinders full and put the plugs back in then pour as much ATF down the exhaust as you can till it starts leaking some place and let it sit a week and then give it a try. $10 gamble but may free up is as I said things look good
 
I have pulled the head and its at the head shop. Here are some pictures. Thanks for the help gents.
a129039.jpg

a129040.jpg
 
I think acetone and ATF is quite a bit more common than diesel and ATF. You may want to try that. Make sure you pick the rust out of the corner between the piston and sleeve.
 
Hard to tell with the bores full of oil but they do not look rusty to me? How does it look underneath? Timing gears may be rusty enough to stick it. camshaft too. Did you get the oil pump out?
 
Marvels Mystery Oil worked on a couple snowmobile engines of mine and I've heard that acetone and atf works great....good luck!
 
It takes more than a few minutes for any magic potion to do its work. Could be days. Could be months. Could be years. Could be never.

One radical thing you could try is to roll the tractor outside, fill one cylinder at a time with diesel, light it on fire, and let it burn out. The heat can/will frequently break the pistons loose.

Usually only one cylinder is stuck, the one that had the exhaust valve open while it sat.. It should be significantly rustier than the rest. That'd be the one to burn first.
 
Do what mkirsch suggested. Move the tractor away from any building and remove anything flammable.
Do one cylinder at a time. It may need several try's. Remove the rod cap and use a piece of 2 X 2 oak and a big hammer to drive out the piston and rod. Hal
 
ya, cant reaaly see how rusty they are, but have seen alot worse! id almost get a 1000amp battery n good starter n bump the starter while pulling on pipe wrench. the sleeves r thicker than a 281, so you got a good chance of not breaking the sleeves.
 
Your cylinders do not look that bad, from what I can see. I would check for a spun rod or main bearing, I have had that happen before.
 
Brady, I still prefer the Burn-Out method. That is to burn out the pistons one at a time and take a B.F.H. and a 4x4 block and drive the pistons out either up or down.
It would be better if the engine was unbolted from the tractor and mounted on an engine stand!
Roll engine outside!
Remove all combustibles from the immediate area. unbolt, remove, #, all Rod and Main caps, and remove Crank too.
Start with the Cylinder with the most Volume, fill with Dsl add a splash of Gas and set on fire!
Usually 1 burning will do the trick but multiple burnings may be needed.
As the volume of the cylinders decreases the # of burnings goes up. The objective is to get enough heat generated to pop the rust ring loose! and drive the piston out!
This method has the potential to save the pistons or cylinders if the rust is not too severe!
Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.
 

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