Stuck bolts....ideas?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Super C: I need to move the wheels in a few
inches. I'm guessing the wheels haven't been
adjusted or completely removed in decades. I got
one bolt loose (out of eight total) using liquid
wrench, a three foot breaker bar with a two foot
pipe, and my 160 pounds hanging on it. Then my
breaker bar broke. Is this a situation where
adding heat to the wheel clamp might help break
these loose? Or is the wheel clamp too big for the
heat of a small torch to do any good?

Any other ideas?
 
What comes to mind is patience. I thnk you got the procedure right, except for time; position the unit so the penetrant seeps veticall down into threads, and I"d use PBBlaster, over and over, and let it soak in a week or two. Then try it.
 
3/4 breaker bar should not break, I weigh 200 and have had 8 feet of leverage on mine which is a cheap one. Heat is the other thing that can help.
Zach
 
I would use the heat, even from a small torch. If you heat the bolt head as hot as you can get it with the small torch, then let it cool, do that several different times. The heating and cooling may help to break the rust bond free. The heat will transfer down the bolt and expand. Some taps with a soft hammer too , and lots of penetrant and time, you should get it. Once it first snaps free, dont get greedy and try to spin it out completely. Repeat the heat and cool, tap , penetrant treatment and work it back and forth . When it starts to move somewhat easier I use motor oil on it then. Good luck !
 
if you dont have one get yourself an air chizel set. use the flat punch and just vibrate it to death on the thread area. along with peneteating oil. fastest and best. beats heating also. i sure dont have that kind of 2 week patience. gotta get er done. also use a 3/4" drive set. but if its just bolts then cut them off.
 
i took a water hose with a spray nozzle put it in every crack til the water came out clear then i used kroil then they came out but this tractor came out of west texas in dry climate just don"t hit the clamp to hard i chipped one of mine
 
i was suggesting that as an option if it were an actual bolt. like why would you pizz around with a bolt when it can be replaced.
 
It is real easy to break a breaker bar if you do not slide the pipe as far onto the breaker bar as possible. I learned that a long time ago.
SDE
 
Small torch = propane torch?

Save it for sweating pipes or making S'mores.

You need something that can get the bolts red hot. Whatever torch you use needs an oxygen tank at minimum.
 
a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid has been proven to be tops in penetrating oil. it will not store long, so keep it in a bottle that you can close.

also, when you go to slide the wheels, turn the wheel so that the solid piece is on top, jack the tractor so that the wheel is going to slide down grade, towards where you wish for it to go. makes life easier. p s , oil the axle before you try to slide wheel.
 
Get a stronger bar and do not hold back. The bolts are 3/4 and the guy who put them on most likely used an impact wrench or a long bar. If you knew the order they were tightened it would help. The last one tightened is the easiest to break loose. When one is out the others will also break loose. Do use the oil and heat. Heat has to be applied both at the bolt head and at the wedge. Heat the bolts and move away and let the heat transfer to the entire length of the bolt. MUSEL up and make it move. I use a 4' length of 1 1/4" water pipe or more if needed.
 
Try hitting the bolt with a large hammer several times.

Use a box-end wrench with a pipe.

Go to Church.
 
One more idea is to use heat and then spray some Deep Creep by Sea Foam on it when it is hot. It has worked well for me before. Sea Foam even advertizes it this way.
 
Can you find a 3/4 inch air impact wrench? HF has them pretty cheap. It's not a tool you will use very often.
 

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