Removing calcium chloride

I recently purchased a 560 gas w/loader from my retiring father-in-law. It is a nice tractor overall but this spring he had to replace a rim because calcium had leaked and rusted it out really bad. Unfortunately he put calcium back in - instead of removing from the other tire - which is what I would have done - and now the other tire is seeping around the valve stem.

I am planning on taking the tire to the tire shop after I drain it to get a new tube installed and make sure the rim is usable. I don"t want them to drain the calcium because they will charge me and they will keep it - I want to pour it on my lane for dust control - I was too cheap this year to pay the county $400 to do it and I regret it now it is so dry and dusty.

So .... Can I just park it with the valve stem down, unscrew the stem and let it run out? Then put the stem back on and fill it with air? I plan on doing both tires and then loading the tractor up with rear wheel weights. I know it will leave a little calcium in them but it should get most I hope.

Let me know if that is a bad plan or if you have a better one.

Thanks!
 
I use a cheap little pump that hooks to a drill. With some plastic tubing I pump it into 5 gal. buckets and use it for grass killer on the fence line.
If you use the tractor for work I would reuse the cal with a new Tube and rim if needed. That new rim will out live you.
 
Are you going to use the tractor WITH THE LOADER ???? , if you are then do you like life ?? Fix the leak and clean and repaint the rims . You can NOT hang enough iron on the back of a loader tractor to offset what the loader will lift and move safely. i run Cal in my tractors all except the S/MTA and it does not do much other then move around or spend some time on the silage blower. When i did have a loader on a 706 the tires were loaded and it had five sets of Do nuts on the wheels and a rack that slid into the fast hitch that weighed a ton and there were times lifting she got real light in the rear.
 
Just buy a new valve stem,(they need to be changed about ever 5 years) put the stem at the top, take out the old one, and put in the new one. The only information you will need to do this is, does your tube have an inside thread or an outside thread. Just ask at a tire store and they will fix you up for $5.00
You will need a pair of pliers and a air hose. If you drain the CC out the loader will be worthless and dangerous.
 
> If you drain the CC out the loader will be
> worthless and dangerous.

That's a bit extreme. I agree that he should keep the CaCl as the loader will work much better with the weight. However, I have 560 with a loader and without loaded tires that I find useful and safe. It does perform better with a round bale on the back, though.
 
I have a 300 farmall with a loader that had calcium in it. I had a tire shop come and pump it out. They wouldn't pay me for it but all they charged me for was a trip. I put a set of weights on it and it also has an aftermarket 3 point hitch. I use this tractor for snow removal it works great and doesn't seem light at all. But the heaviest thing I lift with it is a bucket of snow.
 
As the others have said,"keep the calcium with the loader"!A loader without fluid is like a"hog on ice"-worthless.If you must drain it simply take 2 55 gallon barrels with you to the tire store.Or have them come to you.Have them fill the barrels with your calcium and take it home with you!The 'pump fee' is only $10.00 per tire.You have the loader to load/unload the barrels....
 
i take the valves out.. get a small hose. i thinh 5/16 air line.its black in colar. shove it in the tube tape it around the stem to make it air tight...then blow air in the hose ..when u take the air off it out it comes''''do this several times..and u will get it all out''...i do this to lighten up my loaded tires...
 
For a loader I'd keep the calcium. But if you want to drain it yes. Just park with the stem at the bottom and remove core. It will squirt quite a ways. maybe 40- 50 feet at the start.
 
If you just let it run out make sure it stay's where you want it. If it runs out onto your grass along drive you could be without any grass or anything growing for 10-12 year's. I am speaking from experience.
 
I really don't understand the chloride thing. Our H has had chloride in it since it was new. and has the original rims on it.
If they are leaking fix them don't just run on without.
I would agree with Tractor Vet.
 
All good advice given on here..It"s the same as what they put on the highways/streets in winter.I talked to the city on draining my tires they said it was safe to drain in the street and into the storm sewer..good luck!
 
I would agree with keeping the weight, just get it fixed and refill. I have my tires full of washer fluid and an additional 300 pounds of cast iron per wheel for loader tractor.
 
like said, excellent grass and weed killer
also good for pouring on stumps to hasten the decay and kill the roots
won't hurt nothin going down the run off drain, but
if it's been in the tires a long time, be careful what it runs across.
It will come out tinted black and stain most anything
 
I don't understand why they don't add lime to the CaCl liquid like they did in years past. I've got one set of tires that were filled three years ago. The stem internals have been eaten up twice even though they were stainless. Then, I look over to my Father's tractor. He had those tires filled with CaCl in 1955. There's not one sign of rust around the stem of either tire. Are we making progress here?
 
Thanks for all the great advice guys - all good as usual!

I am going to keep the calcium and get the tube (and rim if needed) fixed/replaced. Like others on the board I have several tractor that are loaded with CaCl2 and have never had an issue before, this is my first leaker.

Thanks!
 

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