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cub clutch question

T

tedregentin

Member
My two youngest boys were using my cub to haul hay bales for a neighbor. The clutch quit working and the pedal was low. I looked at the adjustment on the clutch rod and there was no adjustment left. I took the loader off and split the tractor. The flywheel, pressure plate and disc all look good. The throw out bearing looked bad so I looked at YT parts and they show a graphite throw out bearing as OE with a ball bearing style as an option and improvement. Has anyone run into this? I never knew there was anything like a graphite throw out bearing.
 
Yep the graphite was in fact the factory throw out bearing for the cub. Did one a few years back on a cub I worked on for a friend and all there was was the graphite type. A bearing type will be better and last a lot longer
 
I had no luck with the ball bearings, It didn"t last any longer than the graphite ones. The trick is GREASE lots of grease. The graphite soaks up the grease and keeps it lubed. oldiron29
 
I ran into that with my Super A and was told on this forum that the old graphite one shouldn't be used with a new pressure plate as the graphite "wears in" and may not engage the new pressure plate correctly. Also, in order to use a bearing throw-out you have to buy the housing that the bearing presses onto because the bearing won't fit the graphite housing. I found this to be true and the bearing type is smoother and quieter and well worth the change over.
HTH
 
I put the ball bearing style in my Cub when I did the clutch. Didn't last! This is a non working show tractor and it actually went out while I was loading it so it could have been bad. Next morning, took the TO bearing back to the dealer I got it from. He was nice enough to swap it out under warranty with the graphite bearing. I don't like splitting tractors any more than I have to!
 
Yes, I've done it many times. Get a genuine CaseIH replacement TOB, and soak it in a can of oil for a day or two, then pre-grease it with cheaper grease before you install it. If you have the clutch fingers adjusted correctly and the pedal free play adjusted right and you keep the TOB regularly greased, it'll last years and years.
 
Graphite is very tough and has been used for T/O bearings for a long time (In cars as well as tractors. When the contact between rotating parts is smooth and the pedal freeplay at about an inch to the platform they will last very well. Jim
 
im sure it has been done, but for my 2 cents worth , as big a pain is it is to split the tractor and reattach it i wouldn't chance it id put all of it in there and be done, for years, might talk to the boys about a little proper use of the clutch too, [ they get to help you fix it while you talk so they understand not only the dollar cost but the labor involved in riding the clutch pedal on a tractor],when i was about 11 my grandpa caught me riding a clutch on a farmall c pulling a hay trailer, he taught me better with a piece of wood to my leg about 2 foot long i never rode another clutch, but i dont recomend that style of teaching, he was a hard man lol
 
You can get the whole kit, clutch disk, pressure plate, graphite throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and installation tool, for about $200 from a HY-CAPACITY dealer.

For that little bit of $$$ it's not worth trying to re-use parts that "look" fine. You can't tell whether the clutch is good or not by "look."
 
When you replace the throwout, make sure the pressure plate fingers are adjusted properly or they will destroy the new bearing. face of the fingers should be 1 1/4 inch from the face of the pressure plate when installed to flywheel with disk in place.
 
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