need help attaching belt pulley to super a farmall

im trying to attach my belt pulleys the ones on the holder to my super a.farmall i took off swinging draw bar. i got two threaded bolts comeing out of bouth sides with nuts. and have holes for two bolts theres not enough room to slip the pulley holder over them.do i need to take a pipe wrench and take those threaded rods out and buy bolts. i dont see any other way any help would be great

i should have added im trying to hook up a woods l59 mowing deck

Assembly
15148 (Rev. 2/9/2007)
Figure 15

Drive Pulley Installation
A split taper splined bushing is used to locate and
secure drive pulley to belt pulley shaft. This provides an
easy on-off feature.
To remove bushing, remove bolts securing it to pulley
and shaft and place them into threaded bushing holes.
Tighten evenly to press bushing out of pulley.
Clean paint from center pulley hole and insert split
taper bushing into hole. Insert bolts through
unthreaded bushing holes and into threaded holes of
drive pulley, but do not tighten.
Install drive pulley over belt pulley shaft as far as possible Alternately tighten the splined bushing bolts to secure
the drive pulley. Continue to alternate the tightening
sequence until assembly is tight and all bolts are
torqued to 12 ft-lbs
Woods manuals

L59manual

ive got the pulley on the pto. its the one with the two belt pulleys assembly that mounts up where the front draw bar connects.theres two threaded rods comeing out bouth sides with a nutcomes off but the rod is still there.the hole pattern matches but theres not enough room to get it on there if i slide it to one side. do those threaded rods have to come out and replaced with bolts. thanks for your reply and help

the attachment that holds the mowing deck that has the two small belt pulleys . wont hook up to the tractor. it has threaded rods instead of bolts.do those have to be removed. and replaced with bolts.i tried moveing it to one side but theres not enough room for it to fit over them.if i use a pipe wrench it will destroy the threads. but if they have to come out it wont matter.i might have to ad a picture to explain the trouble im haveing . thank you

Yes you will have to try and remove those bolts but only on the one side. Then replace them with bolts with heads on them .They should come out with a pipe wrench they just have treads on both sides.

You will have to remove the stud bolts (threaded rods) to mount your woods mower bracket. To remove the studs, take one of the nuts off another bolt and screw it on top of the nut on the stud you want to remove then use two wrenches to jam the nuts together. Put one wrench on the inside nut and screw the stud out of the final drive. This will remove the stud without damaging te threads.

I just put the bracket mule drive on my SA. On one side I had the stud in the top hole only. Then you can lift the mule-drive up and hang it on the stud then raise it to the other side and put in a bolt. Then you can easily put in the other 2 bolts on each side. The mule-drive I have is Woods made and I guess they make them a little short to make sure they'll fit between all finals on all tractors. I had to shim out each side 1/4". Also make sure you don't use bolts that are too long or you'll punch a hole in the final when tightening. On each side, 2 of the holes are tapped all the way thru so the length is not critical but on one hole it has a bottom. If you put too long a bolt here and over-tighten you can crack the final into the oil resevoir and end up with a leak. Best to slip a tape measure in this hole first to make sure your bolt is not too long. If you haven't used these holes best to run a tap in them first to clean out junk or rust. On the threaded thru holes, 2" bolt with lockwasher is good, the other hole best is 1 1/2" bolt with lockwasher. If you can find 1 1/2" bolts this is good everywhere. I bought my bolts at Tractor Supply and the shortest they sell in 3/4" is 2" so I had to cut down 2 for the blind holes.
The Woods diagram calls for 1 1/2" bolts and standard washers for shimming. You may need to use more than one washer on each side to shim snug before tightening.
Gerry

thanks guys ive got them soaking with wd 40.now i should be able to hook up my mowing deck.i wasnt able to download a manual. but reading some of the discusions on here. and photos. i shouldnt have any more trouble. i thought i was hooking it up wrong. because of the studs. ill try jamming the two nuts together. my next project hooking up the front mounted scraper blade. im going to have to fab some parts. its missing bouth lift arms. stowage plate. square washers . the boomarang rocker shaft peice.ive been searching every where for those peices. didnt know it was missing anything til i got the manual. well i better get this mower hooked. thanks for the help G.kiser

thats good to know. i will make shure i use the right lenth. i noticed the bottom holes didnt go all the way thru. i have two extra bolts that were where the draw bar is i will check the lenth.the therads are correct . im going to have to fab a lift arm for the rocker shaft. all this info is realy helping out because i dont want to mess a newly restored super a. it pays to ask questions before you break something. thank you a lot G.Kiser

ok got one of the stud bolts out to day by jaming the nuts together. the other one the top striped out. after soaking it with pb blaster lquid wrench wd 40 it still wont break loose even with a pipe wrench and steel pipe for leverge. looks like im going to have to heat it with a torch .is that a good idea should i concentrate the heat just on the bolt i shure dont want to break out that final drive. or would drilling it from the opsite side be a good thing being careful not to hit the threads. this things turned out to be difficult

Heating won't hurt it. Have you soaked with PB Blaster from the back side? Keep soaking and use some heat it should eventually break loose. Next option would be to weld a nut on the stripped end or to drill it from the back side. If you drill it, start with a smaller bit and gradually use larger bits. Don't use cheap bits and be very careful not to break off a bit in there. As your hole gets bigger, keep trying to unscrew the stud, as the hole will relieve the pressure on the threads. Keep at it, you will eventually get it.

Concentrate the heat on the stud. Get it red hot then let it cool. Be patient.

You want the bolt red hot, not the casting. You need an oxy-acetylene or oxy-propane setup. A Bernz-o-matic click torch is only good for roasting hot dogs or lighting cheap cigars in this case.

The heating of the stud expands the casting slightly, and should release the bolt.

You can leave the studs on one side.
But if you've messed up the threads already and the stud is ruined,
Heat it up till you get some color in it, PB blaster. Let it sit untill cool. Try again, if it won't come do heat and PB again. Be patient. Best to let it sit overnight and then repeat.
put a 12" pipe wrench on it, it'll come out.

finaly got it broke lose i wound up drilling a hole in it from the back side after heating it and reapplying pb blaster now my mower is hooked up with new bolts ready to go.maybe this discussion will help someone with the same problem.i shure thank you all for all the helpful info on this