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M waterpump brass packing gland, how tight?

P

Patrick HMD

Member
I just got an aftermarket waterpump. The brass nut was loose, so I'm not sure how tight it should be up against the packing itself. Any set rule on this?

On the old OEM pump, the brass nut was real tight, but seemed to be working OK with no water leaks.

The only reason I replaced it was that the shaft had very noticeable end play. Wasn't sure if that was right or not, or something in there was wore out. So I decided to retire the old 64 year old pump. I discovered this when I removed it for painting. Minimal end play on the new pump shaft.

Another thing. The 2 zerk fittings. Obviously I'll need to pump some grease in there. How do you know when to stop? I sure as heck don't want any excess grease flinging all over the new paint job.

TIA

Patrick
'49M
 
Snug it up until you feel tension on the shaft when turning. If
it leaks turn it some more. The gland should have a space
under the t bar
 
It's made in Asia, etc I have no idea what the packing is. If it doesn't leak, fine. But you may need to tighten it several times, and perhaps replace the packing as I did several years ago on a Super H. It still leaked, but eventually stopped.
 
I recently installed one of those pumps on my super m. The nut was loose when received. I tightened it down pretty darn good and no leaks. The packing nut was torqued down on the old pump. I put a couple of pumps in each zerk.
 
I got a water pump from this site. It was tight when I got it, but the nut walked out and it leaked. I put a dab of loctite on the nut when I tightened it back down.
 
It's supposed to have end play. That's what the
little springs do in the driver is hold the impeller
up against the pump body. You want to tighten the
packing nut with the shaft pulled out as much as you
can. I tighten til there is significant resistance
to turn the shaft with my fingers.
 
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